Gentlemen,
As with many things in the bespoke journey, I have decided that my current trenchcoat does not quite meet the standard for wearing.
Now, the question is. Ready to wear or bespoke?
Broadly, I think bespoke. Using a double breasted raglan coat as my model, slash pockets, perhaps I can even convince my tailor to give me a belt as well.
As for fabric, I was thinking either a cavalry twill or a cover fabric. 100% wool (I don’t like cotton).
Does anyone have any suggestions for fabric that would meet this? Michael, does LL have any fabric you think would sing with this project?
Also, what does everyone think of my idea of a db raglan with a water resistant fabric. My idea is it would bead and roll off.
I live between florida and Washington DC, where it can rain in the summer which is why I am open to other fabrics. Perhaps even a 12 oz wool gabardine?
Bespoke trenchcoat.
Get a vintage Burberry. It's the look you want, they are readily available, and are inexpensive. You really don't want wool, especially if you are in the South. Vintage Burberrys are usually fine right out of the box, but can be easily reproofed, if needed.
This is one area where, in my opinion, there is no point in bespoke. A trench coat means a Burberry. Anything else is a swing and a miss.
This is one area where, in my opinion, there is no point in bespoke. A trench coat means a Burberry. Anything else is a swing and a miss.
Holland and Sherry have a trench coat collection, but tailoring firms don’t generally think this sort of product is worth their while. Best left to manufacturers.
Aquascutum has come and gone. Occasionally o see others that tread on that territory pretty well. But don’t spend $6,000 trying to do better.
Aquascutum has come and gone. Occasionally o see others that tread on that territory pretty well. But don’t spend $6,000 trying to do better.
I have to agree with Andy and Concordia. If what you want is a raincoat, get a raincoat.
On the other hand if the design of the trench coat appeals to you and you want to make it in a tweed or cavalry twill as a utility overcoat. I have five or six hand sewn SB overcoats with slash pockets, storm collar etc....basically a short SB raincoat design. And they are the ones I wear the most. Practical, easy to live with, not at all fussy in terms of style. You see a ton of these coats in Italy.
But if you essentially want a raincoat....get one RTW.
If you send me an email to llclothclub@yahoo.com I will look and see what kind of LL cloth we have kicking around that might suit your project.
Cheers
On the other hand if the design of the trench coat appeals to you and you want to make it in a tweed or cavalry twill as a utility overcoat. I have five or six hand sewn SB overcoats with slash pockets, storm collar etc....basically a short SB raincoat design. And they are the ones I wear the most. Practical, easy to live with, not at all fussy in terms of style. You see a ton of these coats in Italy.
But if you essentially want a raincoat....get one RTW.
If you send me an email to llclothclub@yahoo.com I will look and see what kind of LL cloth we have kicking around that might suit your project.
Cheers
One of my tailors accepted this mission. I commissioned a couple -- the original, classic trench, including all the traditional specs. Both function as top/over coats. I used tan cavalry twill for both -- one lighter (14 oz.), the other around 22/23 oz. A tan tightly-woven covert would be great, I think.
Thank you, everybody for the responses
Right now, I have an old ralph Lauren purple label 100% cotton trenchcoat, which is a tad bit small especially when I wear a jacket underneath. One consideration I have is that I sweat a lot, especially in the summer if I’m wearing that coat.
The more I think about it the more I think that even a 14 ounce Calvalry twill will be really hot for me as well which has the right answer for me. Is it 280 g wool gabardine. But I’m beginning to think the objective of this project is misguided:
1. Perhaps a water resistant wool suit (wool gabardine) for summer days it will shower.
2. When worn casually (no jacket) I can use the old coat
3. Perhaps a heavier weight 630g cavalry twill to extend the life of the coat from fall rain to winter and spring showers.
I think trying to convince a tailor to make a trench coat from something like a 280g wool gabardine (used for suits) will be a tall order (and I’m unconvinced it’d be advisable).
Right now, I have an old ralph Lauren purple label 100% cotton trenchcoat, which is a tad bit small especially when I wear a jacket underneath. One consideration I have is that I sweat a lot, especially in the summer if I’m wearing that coat.
The more I think about it the more I think that even a 14 ounce Calvalry twill will be really hot for me as well which has the right answer for me. Is it 280 g wool gabardine. But I’m beginning to think the objective of this project is misguided:
1. Perhaps a water resistant wool suit (wool gabardine) for summer days it will shower.
2. When worn casually (no jacket) I can use the old coat
3. Perhaps a heavier weight 630g cavalry twill to extend the life of the coat from fall rain to winter and spring showers.
I think trying to convince a tailor to make a trench coat from something like a 280g wool gabardine (used for suits) will be a tall order (and I’m unconvinced it’d be advisable).
Agree with Andy.andy57 wrote: ↑Sun Jun 08, 2025 4:08 pmGet a vintage Burberry. It's the look you want, they are readily available, and are inexpensive. You really don't want wool, especially if you are in the South. Vintage Burberrys are usually fine right out of the box, but can be easily reproofed, if needed.
This is one area where, in my opinion, there is no point in bespoke. A trench coat means a Burberry. Anything else is a swing and a miss.
Cheers, David
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Noble Savage
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I find this model to be much better than a double breasted trench coat.
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