The semiotics of male coats buttoning

[marcelo]

A man’s coat buttoning, and the way it differs from a lady’s coat, has been the same for over one century. Legend has it that the origin of male buttoning stems from one’s carrying a sword on the left hand side. In order reach for the hilt with his right hand, and pull the sword out without restrictions, a gentleman would prefer to lay the left hand side of his coat over the right hand side. But except for its use as an accessory in military uniforms, the fact is that men haven’t carried swords anymore for a long time, so that one may wonder why not even designers have tried to set new fashions as far as male coats buttoning is concerned.





It occurred to me, then, if the traditional male buttoning would not have been preserved in modern times for the sake of the very same principle it was created in the first place. Most men are still right-handed and more often than not still very concerned about their own security. If you happen to conceal a weapon (or if you happen to use a shaving brush as a weapon) beneath your coat, it will be easier to reach for it with you right hand, without having to unbutton your coat or other restrictions, when the coat follows the traditional male buttoning. Though most men do not carry a gun (or so I believe), I suspect the traditional buttoning still unconsciously evokes the idea of power and security associated with the use of a gun. Another unconscious factor at work here is – this is the second hypothesis I would like to suggest – the Napoleonic pose. I think it does only work when the right hand is tucked under the coat. Napoleon did not invent that pose, for it can be see in some previous paintings, but I assume that that stance, too, evokes the idea of power and self-control. - But the effect will not be achieved with elegance and balance if one has a coat with a lady's buttoning.










Marcelo

[Costi]

Though most men do not carry a gun (or so I believe)[...]

You never know


http://dresswithstyle.com/2010/01/11/we ... e-a-leone/

I recently learned that spiral stairs in medieval fortresses were built anti-clockwise, so that the wall would hinder right-handed assaulters and, on the other hand, give a better range of movement (plus the advantage of superior ground) to those defending the fortress sword in hand. I believe the only reason why this buttoning convention survived to our days is that ladies' coats traditionally button the other way round. While both leftwards unfolding spiral stairs and male coats' buttoning right over left certainly originate in the practicality of handling a sword, only the latter of traditions survived because, while stairs have no "sex", garments do, and not even "unisex" fashions went as far as mixing up the buttoning.

BUT... transgressions do happen. Take a close look at the way Dietrich's waistcoat buttons:


Well, she IS wearing a quintessentially male costume, but she could have opted to invert the buttoning, as she did on most of her other masculine cut suits with coat and trousers:


While women behaving and dressing like men has increasingly become an accepted reality in the Western world, the reciprocal to that has not; therefore inverting the buttoning on a male coat remains somewhat of a tabu.

[shredder]

As far as traditional Japanese garments are concerned, the custom does not refer to gender but rather to whether one is still of this world. Both men and women wrap the garment the way Michael does, and I believe that it is also the norm in Korea and China with respect to their national dress. In Japan, it goes the other way for the deceased, for the funeral.

The right hand tucked in as if to demonstrate gastronomic bliss, or perhaps a mild indigestion, is an intriguing one. As you correctly point out, it is not an isolated habit of a handful of eccentrics. It would be interesting to understand this a bit more.

Good topic, Marcelo. Thanks.

s

[storeynicholas]

A Book Of Genteel Behaviour , by Francois Nivelon, suggests that the pose denotes "manly boldness, tempered with modesty".

Others have suggested that it derives from the Roman habit of keeping a hand within the toga when speaking but at least some of the famous statues of the great orator Cicero have his hands in evidence and even apparent motion, so I am not convinced by that suggested explanation. I agree that this is a great topic and, shredder, that's a nice titbit too!
NJS

[shredder]

I wonder if it had something to do with signalling that one comes in peace. With the right hand tucked in, it would be difficult to draw one's sword without delay. Also, it would not be inconsistent with the notion of 'manly boldness, tempered with modesty'. And, perhaps, the achievement of repose.

[storeynicholas]

Shredder - I've also seen this given as a reason and the same reason for shaking right hands on meeting; to show an idle right hand and harmless intent. In the case of hand tucked in it could also demonstrate contempt for danger; although it must be said that Deringer (or Derringer)-style pistols could easily have been concealed inside the vest, from the beginning of the 19th Century.

The men of the 18th and 19th Centuries took the cultivation of insouciance to an art form. Once pistols became the weapons of choice for duels, it was considered bad form: to take careful aim; to have rifled barrels or backsights and it all became nearly a matter of mere luck (or fate). Those who did not keep these customs (and shot to kill) were criticised for it. However, it did not stop the gunmakers from introducing such innovations and one of them, Robert Wogdon, became known as the "Patron of Leaden Death", on account of the number of men killed by his pistols.
NJS

[marcelo]

There is a short wikipedia article on the Napoleonic pose at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand-in-waistcoat it also contains some further literature on the topic. It is really incredible how many men were portrayed in the Napoleonic pose in eighteenth and nineteenth century.

[shredder]

The men of the 18th and 19th Centuries took the cultivation of insouciance to an art form. Once pistols became the weapons of choice for duels, it was considered bad form: to take careful aim; to have rifled barrels or backsights and it all became nearly a matter of mere luck (or fate). Those who did not keep these customs (and shot to kill) were criticised for it. However, it did not stop the gunmakers from introducing such innovations and one of them, Robert Wogdon, became known as the "Patron of Leaden Death", on account of the number of men killed by his pistols.
NJS

Ah, it sounds like one of those rules proposed by those that never had any intensions to comply, devised with the sole aim of putting one's opponent at a disadvantage.

[marcelo]

Now, the pose itself does not explain the endurance of traditional male buttoning. What I had suggested is that the traditional male buttoning may have had in the twentieth century the same function it had earlier, to wit: to allow a man to reach for his gun swiftly and without restrictions. True, in the course of twentieth century the number of men carrying a gun has gradually decreased. Still, they kept on going to the cinema, and images like that of Humphrey Bogart’s above may have reinforced the idea that male buttoning cannot be otherwise, even if a man is not really intent on concealing a gun beneath his coat. Traditional male buttoning suggests power and manliness. I think the same is true of the classical Napoleonic pose. But the pose will not work if the coat does not have the traditional buttoning.

[shredder]

Marcelo,
Judging from Beretta's apparently healthy business, constant news about criminals in many countries being better armed than the police and unfortunate people living in areas where they feel compelled to carry sidearms and have related sartorial challenges, cf., http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/foru ... =concealed, I am not quite persuaded that there are less people carrying guns these days.

Whatever the statistics, as far as the buttoning orientation is concerned, I think that it is unlikely to change just because certain reasons became outdated. For a habit or custom to change, there would need to be some kind of a catalyst, so I suspect that we will continue with our buttoning orientation even after handguns become a thing of the past (not that I think this will happen during my lifetime).

Instead of a gun, I tend to carry around a phone, which I normally use with my left hand, leaving my right hand to write if necessary. Therefore, the ideal place for me to carry a phone would be the inside ticket pocket. On the right. However, the male buttoning orientation is not particularly helpful in this context. But then, I don't aim to answer calls in less than 3 rings.

Plus, I don't think I can manage buttoning with my left hand.
s

[garu]

Gentlemen -

My apologies for being away for so long, but I have been a bit indisposed over the past few months. I will slowly limp my way back into the bosom of the LL.

I agree that this thread is a cracker, and all of the points noted sound plausible. However, I am surprised that one point has not yet been made: the predominance of the right hand, and, to a lesser degree, the association of evil with the left hand.

Most men are right-handed (90%+ of most populations), and throughout history being left-handed has been seen as having something of a touch of evil. My next door neighbor, a Latin teacher at the local university, tells me that the toga had a pocket on the left side (only), called a sinus. The English word "sinister" (suggestive of threatened evil, ominous, etc.) comes from the Latin sinestra, which can mean "left," but also "evil" or "without luck."

Although there have been cultures where left-handedness has been prized, left-handedness today is seen as something akin to having ginger hair. Think of it: "two left feet" to represent someone who is clumsy; or someone who is "goofy," or - worse - "cack-handed."

It seems that, perhaps, the buttoning style of male coats comes from a combination of these two things: the toga, and the desire to discourage the use of the "evil" hand.

As for myself, I am happily and fully ambidextrous.

Cheers,
garu

[Simon A]

My Chinese friends tell me that, when learning to write as children, if they were left handed they were forced to write right-handed (and then smacked with a ruler for their less than elegant handwriting). Historically, Chinese was written with brush and ink, from top to bottom, right to left, and oddly if one were left-handed the sleeve would be less likely smudge a line of text as one proceeded with the next line..but still the preference was for right-handed calligraphy. Even though calligraphy is less of a universal occupation among literate Chinese people now, it is still strongly recommended that southpaws restrain their sinister inclinations....

[kilted2000]

My Chinese friends tell me that, when learning to write as children, if they were left handed they were forced to write right-handed (and then smacked with a ruler for their less than elegant handwriting). Historically, Chinese was written with brush and ink, from top to bottom, right to left, and oddly if one were left-handed the sleeve would be less likely smudge a line of text as one proceeded with the next line..but still the preference was for right-handed calligraphy. Even though calligraphy is less of a universal occupation among literate Chinese people now, it is still strongly recommended that southpaws restrain their sinister inclinations....

When my mother was going to Catholic School in the 50's they made her write with the right hand, even though she is left handed.

[Costi]

The English word "sinister" (suggestive of threatened evil, ominous, etc.) comes from the Latin sinestra, which can mean "left," but also "evil" or "without luck."

Indeed, a subtle observation. In Dante's Inferno, he and Virgil keep turning left at each new circle, going deeper into hell. When in Purgatory, they are instructed to move in the opposite direction. The choice is not casual and the moral connotations of left and right appear already deeply engrained in the Middle Ages conscience.
So... women wearing their coats (and trousers, once they started wearing them!) buttoned the other way round, left-handed as it were, is what? - a permanent reminder of the original sin?

PS: a pleasure to see you back, garu

[shredder]

Garu, excellent point. The Brunette is left handed, which explains one or two things...

Simon A, I agree that there is an apparent incongruity in writing from right to left using one's right hand. However, if one considers the structures of individual characters and their components, then one appreciates that each stroke as well as the prescribed sequence of strokes, without which the characters never quite turn out as intended, are designed for one's right hand. It is not impossible to do them well with one's left hand, but it would entail some awkward movements. After carefully writing a line with one's right hand, then one smudges it whilst writing the next line...

s