Search found 17 matches

by ethandesu
Mon Nov 03, 2014 5:37 am
Forum: The Structure of Style
Topic: Sprezzatura: my observations...
Replies: 60
Views: 5006

Re: Sprezzatura: my observations...

On this point I must play devil's advocate, and I offer in my defense that I have been daily assaulted by both those overtly conscious of appearing "sprezz", and those so nauseatingly pretentious that any misconduct with the 'rules of classical dressing' becomes akin to a personal attack on their pr...
by ethandesu
Mon Nov 03, 2014 4:44 am
Forum: The Structure of Style
Topic: Pitti Me
Replies: 39
Views: 3037

Re: Pitti Me

I perhaps am the wrong person to weigh in on the subject - I am in the industry, often at Pitti, and have been known to take pictures of myself in bespoke clothing, but after reading through I thought it worth adding the thoughts of someone who does represent that side of things. Pitti has, for the ...
by ethandesu
Mon Jul 14, 2014 12:09 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: The overcoat conundrum.
Replies: 35
Views: 4228

Re: The overcoat conundrum.

At 181cm tall and a healthy 105 kilos, my overcoat is as below - a Martingala style coat by Liverano & Liverano. It is lined in a wool challis, presumably woven in the 50's to make ties from. Not often needed in Hong Kong, but very handy when I travel in the winter. http://38.media.tumblr.com/e93769...
by ethandesu
Thu Jun 28, 2012 6:58 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: The ideal smoking jacket
Replies: 53
Views: 10933

Re: The ideal smoking jacket

Dear All, I have stumbled on this thread looking for inspiration in a smoking jacket for myself - hopefully if I can materialize one, I can document the process here for your amusement. As a little background - I live in Hong Kong, about a ten minutes walk from the central business district, with a ...
by ethandesu
Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:18 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Great Experience with Ascot Chang
Replies: 29
Views: 3627

Re: Great Experience with Ascot Chang

Justin Chang is a friend, and while I don't sell their bespoke product in store, I do take quite a few of my clients to see them. Particularly Thomas in their Prince building store here in HK - he is a former striker/pattern maker, and now a fitter, so he is very good. He does tend to cut shirts sli...
by ethandesu
Mon Dec 26, 2011 8:58 am
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: Notch level for DB lapel
Replies: 21
Views: 12001

Re: Notch level for DB lapel

Thanks for the kind words, Slew - It is indeed by Chan, fit by Patrick.
Thinking that I may just have this done as my dinner suit...

desu
by ethandesu
Fri Dec 23, 2011 11:45 am
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: Notch level for DB lapel
Replies: 21
Views: 12001

Re: Notch level for DB lapel

Thanks for the nice feedback, all - I was quite happy with it myself. The pockets are straight, not at all slanted, although my poor posture makes it seem like they slant downwards slightly. My only hesitation at first was the straight and slim breast welt pocket, but with the straight notchline on ...
by ethandesu
Thu Dec 22, 2011 2:34 am
Forum: The Sartorials
Topic: Notch level for DB lapel
Replies: 21
Views: 12001

Re: Notch level for DB lapel

I thought it worthwhile posting an image of one of my own, where the notch sits a shade lower, and almost horizontally. I like the wider overlap, despite having quite a bit of width through the middle myself. I know some would think it unflattering for a more rotund frame like my own, but for some r...
by ethandesu
Tue Aug 23, 2011 11:58 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Guild of Crafts
Replies: 0
Views: 708

Guild of Crafts

All, This may have been mentioned already, but while sitting down to dinner with Mrs Desu, a piece on Guild of Crafts from Tokyo came on to NHK world - was fantastic and my appreciation of Chihiro Yamaguchi has only grown. Showed him lasting a new style of single monk boot for himself - an interesti...
by ethandesu
Fri Jun 03, 2011 7:32 am
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: Luggage
Replies: 67
Views: 13756

Re: Luggage

My wife and i both use Rimowa in the aluminum finish, and love them. They pack well, close easily, and take abuse with all the stoicism you could hope. I had mine sent to Sydney from Hawaii, where a friend sells them, and rather than nix them up, he stuck the details on the luggage and posted it as,...
by ethandesu
Mon Jul 26, 2010 11:56 am
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: Omega Restoration
Replies: 10
Views: 2479

Re: Omega Restoration

I also am a fan of Omega, and I have a few vintage pieces, all of which have needed a decent amount of work to get them back to true. I sent off a '71 non date Dynamic, which took almost two years and cost double the purchase price of the watch through Omega in Bienne, but the work is fantastic and ...
by ethandesu
Tue Aug 05, 2008 5:20 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Briatore's Wedding
Replies: 58
Views: 14151

Forgive my ignorance, RWS, but by lower classes do you mean people of poorer lineage? Being an Australian of Irish convict descent would certainly qualify me for that category, but thankfully in Sydney and Tokyo where I spend most of my time, the number of servants your grandparents employed is of l...
by ethandesu
Tue Aug 05, 2008 5:20 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Briatore's Wedding
Replies: 58
Views: 14151

Forgive my ignorance, RWS, but by lower classes do you mean people of poorer lineage? Being an Australian of Irish convict descent would certainly qualify me for that category, but thankfully in Sydney and Tokyo where I spend most of my time, the number of servants your grandparents employed is of l...
by ethandesu
Mon Jun 23, 2008 8:15 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Tie Knots
Replies: 15
Views: 5761

I've been wearing a knot for a while that I have heard described as the Victoria, but that could be wrong - essentially a four in the hand, but wrapped around twice and back through both loops. Seems to make a nice long knot that works well with my heavyish beard. That being said, my question is thi...
by ethandesu
Fri Jun 20, 2008 4:32 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Sartoriani - ASA bespoke ruling
Replies: 38
Views: 9184

A little off topic her - but how would you class shirts that are pattern made to indvidual measurements, but machine made? I have both hand stitched off the peg, and machine stitched made to measure, and as far as shirting ges, it is the machine made I would most likely term Bespoke.

Ethandesu