Search found 120 matches

by jcusey
Sun Feb 18, 2007 11:20 pm
Forum: Elegant Living
Topic: Gin
Replies: 32
Views: 17495

by jcusey
Sun Jan 28, 2007 5:32 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Dimples on the insole
Replies: 8
Views: 3762

My Mantellassi Norwegians do have the dimples. Vass shoes have a full-length sock liner, so you can't see the dimples even though they are there. They will be present to a greater or lesser extent on any hand-welted shoes made with the carved feather method. Consequently, I would expect to see them ...
by jcusey
Sun Jan 28, 2007 5:28 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Dimples on the insole
Replies: 8
Views: 3762

Yes, you are correct. My verbiage was sloppy. It's not the act of carving that causes the dimples. It is the fact that the carving leaves certain areas of the insole thinner than others, combined with the welting process, that causes the dimples. Insole dimples are caused by carving the feather/hold...
by jcusey
Sat Jan 27, 2007 9:10 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Dimples on the insole
Replies: 8
Views: 3762

Insole dimples are caused by carving the feather/holdfast out of the insole, as is typically done with hand-welted shoes. A lack of dimples implies that the feather is either linen strip glued to the insole or that the feather was raised from the insole using the cut-and-turn method.
by jcusey
Mon Nov 06, 2006 2:20 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Dopey’s Clogs
Replies: 10
Views: 4321

Re: Dopey’s Clogs

These should be en route to me now and I hope you enjoy the photos. If these fit, I shall no longer have any reason to drool over the Weston Hunt Derby. (Full size versions of some of these photos are in the photojournal.) I think that your shoes beat the Weston Hunt shoe all to hell on looks. They...
by jcusey
Sat Oct 28, 2006 9:30 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Oxxford factory visit
Replies: 18
Views: 7172

Re: Tremendous report

Does Oxxford do CMT work for clients? Do they have their own books of cloth or do they use the normal suppliers (ie Lessers etc.)? Oxxford will do CMT. Almost all of the fabric books that I have seen have only had the Oxxford label on them, although a few (eg, the Escorial books) have further ident...
by jcusey
Sat Oct 28, 2006 2:05 pm
Forum: Etutee Apparel Arts Library
Topic: Vol. II No. II (Feb 06') Nothing but...Tails
Replies: 18
Views: 39321

Re: Vol. II No. II (Feb 06') Nothing but...Tails

Hard have been the trials of those seeking ease in wearing the formal evening shoe—the pump. Exact fit is essential in the wearing of the pump, and even then the tendency to catch at the instep uncomfortably and the looseness at the heel have discouraged the otherwise strong in heart. The majority ...
by jcusey
Sat Oct 14, 2006 4:48 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Nabuk boots
Replies: 5
Views: 1974

Jona wrote: Still too warm to dress them!
Nonsense!

I like that they look to be fairly high even though they only have three eyelets. Very nice, and I hope that you enjoy them.
by jcusey
Sat Oct 14, 2006 3:32 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Nabuk boots
Replies: 5
Views: 1974

Bestetti?
by jcusey
Mon Sep 25, 2006 4:29 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Anthony Delos
Replies: 44
Views: 17777

Thanks for the pics and the reports, rjman. I have enjoyed them tremendously. I will be expecting similar reports for Berluti, Dmitri Gomez, Lobb Paris, and others in the coming months. :twisted:
by jcusey
Sat Sep 09, 2006 7:47 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Anthony Delos
Replies: 44
Views: 17777

rjman wrote:My shoes are done, and now just the trees are being worked on, so I should be able to collect the whole enchilada at the end of the month.
What are you doing for the trees? Standard functional-but-ugly or something more attractive?
by jcusey
Sat Sep 09, 2006 7:40 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: New Shoes from The London Shoemaker
Replies: 19
Views: 6130

The model I used to describe the style to Paul was a Vass 3-eyelet derby, and the quarter seam extends far back on those models. I rather wanted this feature on this shoe to make it sleeker as I have short, wide feet. I don't think that doing the same thing on a half-brogue is a bug - just a matter...
by jcusey
Wed Aug 09, 2006 2:13 am
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Melker Shoes - Norwegian-front boots
Replies: 5
Views: 2601

Murali, were these closed and made in London or in Sweden? And what is your opinion about the utility (or lack thereof) of pull tabs on the back of boots?

I like them very much -- they worked out very well.
by jcusey
Tue Jul 04, 2006 4:56 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: E Green suede derby (3-hole?)
Replies: 6
Views: 2151

I couldn't tell you if you remember correctly; but if I remember correctly, EG does have a model called the Exeter, which is a two-eyelet derby with V-shaped quarters and which sounds like it may be similar to the shoe you saw. Courtesy of mpolanthan, here's a picture: http://img136.imageshack.us/im...
by jcusey
Tue Jul 04, 2006 4:45 pm
Forum: The Bespoke Forum
Topic: Suede shoes: which RTW brand?
Replies: 24
Views: 9349

I know of no maker that specializes in suede. EG does have a nice range of suede colors, but many other makers do, too. Pick whomever makes a shoe that fits you well and appeals to your eye.