Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

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Frederic Leighton
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Mon Jul 28, 2014 11:40 pm

Another wonderful gun-club. Food for thought for the LL Cloth Club. Photos and description HERE. Enjoy!

Image
davidhuh
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Tue Jul 29, 2014 12:36 am

Great find Federico!

Cheers, David
hectorm
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Tue Jul 29, 2014 3:07 am

Is it me?, or does the jacket indeed look much better in the black and white pictures?
Maybe it´s just because the form is no competition for Mr. Cooper. :)
Frederic Leighton
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Tue Jul 29, 2014 8:14 am

hectorm wrote:Is it me?, or does the jacket indeed look much better in the black and white pictures? Maybe it´s just because the form is no competition for Mr. Cooper. :)
100% agree with that, but it must be because of the enhanced contrast of B/W photos (photo editing) and the deteriorated contrast of the original jacket (80 years of wearing, cleaning and dry cleaning).
arch
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Tue Jul 29, 2014 11:16 am

I wonder how many of the old fawned over B + W photos enhanced the reality of a rather pedestrian patterns?
uppercase
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Tue Jul 29, 2014 6:04 pm

No,the proper conclusion is that the man makes the clothes.
hectorm
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Tue Jul 29, 2014 6:59 pm

Frederic Leighton wrote: 100% agree with that, but it must be because of the enhanced contrast of B/W photos and the deteriorated contrast of the original jacket.
uppercase wrote: No,the proper conclusion is that the man makes the clothes.
Well, I think you are both right.
Also notice that the jacket has totally lost its beautiful lapel roll, which I would say is the key element carried so well by Mr. Cooper in the B&W photos.
ballmouse
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Tue Jul 29, 2014 8:29 pm

arch wrote:I wonder how many of the old fawned over B + W photos enhanced the reality of a rather pedestrian patterns?
It seems like to me the B&W photos actually show more contrast of the jacket's colors.
bond_and_beyond
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Tue Jul 29, 2014 8:49 pm

The tailor is apparently called Basil Durant. A Google search turned up a 1932 issue of the New Yorker with the following quote:

"Basil Durant has the logical notion that a custom tailor might as well make clothes for swimming too, and is tak- ing orders for his own design of flannel shorts ..."

Flannel shorts for swimming? Interesting..

BB
emc894
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Wed Jul 30, 2014 11:20 pm

ballmouse wrote:
arch wrote:I wonder how many of the old fawned over B + W photos enhanced the reality of a rather pedestrian patterns?
It seems like to me the B&W photos actually show more contrast of the jacket's colors.
I think the base is just yellowed from age.
alden
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Thu Jul 31, 2014 5:52 am

It reminds me a bit of the City Gun Club in a bit larger scale without the blue windowpane.

Would be nice

Cheers
Melcombe
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Fri Aug 08, 2014 2:49 pm

An interesting fit. It appears quite roomy around the upper arm. Very comfortable Im sure - it adds quite a degree of top weight to the silhouette which is quite flattering IMHO.
couch
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Sat Aug 09, 2014 3:47 am

That's also a feature of most of the AA / Esky illustrations that isn't much commented on. The piped sleeve doesn't seem to have been much in evidence, especially with a drape cut. I've heard several people comment on the art of feeding a largish sleevehead into a smallish armscye, and I think the combination does give room for movement and adds, as you say, to a silhouette suggesting upper-body mass versus the nipped waist.
C.Lee
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Sat Aug 09, 2014 7:56 pm

Yes, a feature both masculine and elegant to the eyes, and comfortable for the wearer. Here is a fine example by Humphrey Bogart:

Image


Regards.
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