Second commission advice!

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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Harry Flash
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Thu Aug 22, 2013 11:33 am

Hi,

I was hoping for a little advice / opinion. I'm looking for my second bespoke suit, and have narrowed it down to a couple of choices.

In terms of usage, I'm trying to create something that is for eveningwear today (think sit-down meals in an Officers' Mess etc), but will be able to be used for work in the City tomorrow without raising eyebrows. I've already got a charcoal worsted with blue overcheck, a slightly lighter (in terms of cloth and hue) charcoal pinhead worsted, and a rather ancient navy worsted with a royal blue pinstripe that is currently my 'fighting suit' (no actual fighting involved, don't worry). I think that a navy solid should probably be the next addition to the wardrobe, and is pretty much the most versatile suit as far as I can make out.

The cloth choices are either a herringbone worsted (both from H Lesser, a classic navy 29806 from bunch 303, or a dark navy Golden Bale 31144 from bunch 305), but I also love the idea of a flannel (Fox's classic navy 14oz?) as it seems slightly unusual these days. I'm not so worried about the heat (I wear slightly cold), but I do worry about the durability of it though.

As for the jacket itself, it will be a fairly classic 2 button, three piece suit, notch lapels (probably no lapels on the waistcoat though), very structured / fitted, side vents, hacking pockets and a ticket pocket.

Any advice or suggestions would be really appreciated. I think the main question I'm really trying to answer (from people with far more experience than me in these matters) is whether I could go for the flannel for a slightly more old-world look, or whether I would be better off going for one of the other two choices as I'm still just starting out my wardrobe.

Image
Lumbs Golden Bale Dark Navy Herringbone

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H Lesser Navy Herringbone, 13oz

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Fox Bros Classic Navy Flannel, 14oz

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
bjs
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Thu Aug 22, 2013 2:01 pm

I'd say stick with the worsted (over the flannel) until you have more suits in your rotation. Also, worth checking out the Smith's Botany book (12/13 oz) - it has a lovely dark navy herringbone (forget the number) which may cost in at less than the Lessers fabrics.
alden
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Thu Aug 22, 2013 2:15 pm

I'd say stick with the worsted (over the flannel) until you have more suits in your rotation. Also, worth checking out the Smith's Botany book (12/13 oz) - it has a lovely dark navy herringbone (forget the number) which may cost in at less than the Lessers fabrics.
Sound advice. There is also a great blue herringbone in the Smiths Steadfast book. The other choice would be the navy Mistral by the London Lounge, there is a suit length left over I believe.

Cheers
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culverwood
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Thu Aug 22, 2013 2:41 pm

I do love my blue flannel and it will give you an excuse to buy a blue worsted as well perhaps RTW.
Harry Flash
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Fri Aug 23, 2013 2:30 pm

Thanks for the comments, it sounds as though the flannel will have to wait! Where would I find an image of the navy Mistral please? I've had a good look through the threads here but can only find the grey mistrals..
Screaminmarlon
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Fri Aug 23, 2013 6:27 pm

I think the Navy Mistral is this one:
Image
I took delivery of the dark grey and it's a stunning cloth, I wholeheartedly reccomend it.
If there's still a coat lenght left of the navy after you made your choice, I'd be really interested in purchasing it :)
Saluti
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emc894
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Fri Aug 23, 2013 7:11 pm

Harry,

If your user name is a refernce to Tom Brown's School Days or George McDonald Fraser's series then bravo.

I woudl go with a 13oz worsted from Smiths or Lesser. Very substaintal cloth, classic cloth that looks elegant at night and correct but interesting during the day.
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