Christmas tale from Switzerland
Gentlemen,
I was in the firm believe that my home country had no tailors left. I knew I was wrong since some time - there is somebody in Zurich whom I never met, and there was a Mr Häberli in Basel who recently left to open shop in Copenhagen where the grass is more green. In Berne where I live, I used to go to a Macedonian alterations tailor to fix immediate problems such as loose buttons. I knew for some time that they had a small scale bespoke operation running, but I didn't give it a lot of trust. The only cloth available was Scabal. And the only clients I ever met in the shop came to fix their RTW suits.
A few days before Christmas, when I went there to fix a button, I noticed a panel advertising a bespoke offer at rather astonishing prices - 400 CHF for a pair of trousers, 700 for a coat. Of course I inquired. Mr Umeri told me that he purchased some cloth from Germany that he got very cheaply and the offer was for getting this made up. He felt the need of doing some decent tailoring work, otherwise his fingers would have no practice. Then I said "what about if I give you some cloth, would you make it up?" Of course, he said. So I returned the next day with a piece of cavalry twill from the last subscription and the best cut trousers from the London House aka Rubinacci to copy. To be on the safe side, I also give him decent horn buttons. When he saw the model, he said this can be done, no problem, but not for 400. I asked how much, he said 500. He explained this was more elaborate, much more handwork than what he was offering. Still, it was a good deal and I agreed.
Two days ago, he called "Sir, your trousers are ready", and yesterday, I went to collect them. I tried them on, perfect fit. Without any fitting. He seemed proud, and said "we have your pattern now, at your service anytime". And he added "this material is absolutely phantastic - I hope you don't mind that I called up Lovat mill. They said they would send me their tweed bunch." Of course, I didn't mind. Then we talked a little. I wanted to know where he learned his trade. "From my father". Ah, the gentleman with the moustache who works five floors upstairs, I replied. Yes indeed, he said. Unfortunately, he left us three years ago after an aggressive tumour. I felt sad, I remembered the nice tall man who used to take my repairs in the past. "And where did you father learn the trade?" From his father, he replied. "You know, we are used to do everything by hand. Everything. Unfortunately, we have only very few customers who appreciate. I could do a real hand made coat for 1800, even better than the one you are wearing". Hm, that was a blow. My tweed coat was from a well known English cutter. I asked what was wrong with it. He said, he would place the pockets more forward and he would not make a roped shoulder but a spalla camicia by hand, without stuffing things up.
Now I'm thinking what to take to him next . I have been wearing the trousers today. I'm full of praise for the cloth. And very happy with his work. Life is full of surprises I like the thought of having a tailor 500m from my house.
Cheers, David
I was in the firm believe that my home country had no tailors left. I knew I was wrong since some time - there is somebody in Zurich whom I never met, and there was a Mr Häberli in Basel who recently left to open shop in Copenhagen where the grass is more green. In Berne where I live, I used to go to a Macedonian alterations tailor to fix immediate problems such as loose buttons. I knew for some time that they had a small scale bespoke operation running, but I didn't give it a lot of trust. The only cloth available was Scabal. And the only clients I ever met in the shop came to fix their RTW suits.
A few days before Christmas, when I went there to fix a button, I noticed a panel advertising a bespoke offer at rather astonishing prices - 400 CHF for a pair of trousers, 700 for a coat. Of course I inquired. Mr Umeri told me that he purchased some cloth from Germany that he got very cheaply and the offer was for getting this made up. He felt the need of doing some decent tailoring work, otherwise his fingers would have no practice. Then I said "what about if I give you some cloth, would you make it up?" Of course, he said. So I returned the next day with a piece of cavalry twill from the last subscription and the best cut trousers from the London House aka Rubinacci to copy. To be on the safe side, I also give him decent horn buttons. When he saw the model, he said this can be done, no problem, but not for 400. I asked how much, he said 500. He explained this was more elaborate, much more handwork than what he was offering. Still, it was a good deal and I agreed.
Two days ago, he called "Sir, your trousers are ready", and yesterday, I went to collect them. I tried them on, perfect fit. Without any fitting. He seemed proud, and said "we have your pattern now, at your service anytime". And he added "this material is absolutely phantastic - I hope you don't mind that I called up Lovat mill. They said they would send me their tweed bunch." Of course, I didn't mind. Then we talked a little. I wanted to know where he learned his trade. "From my father". Ah, the gentleman with the moustache who works five floors upstairs, I replied. Yes indeed, he said. Unfortunately, he left us three years ago after an aggressive tumour. I felt sad, I remembered the nice tall man who used to take my repairs in the past. "And where did you father learn the trade?" From his father, he replied. "You know, we are used to do everything by hand. Everything. Unfortunately, we have only very few customers who appreciate. I could do a real hand made coat for 1800, even better than the one you are wearing". Hm, that was a blow. My tweed coat was from a well known English cutter. I asked what was wrong with it. He said, he would place the pockets more forward and he would not make a roped shoulder but a spalla camicia by hand, without stuffing things up.
Now I'm thinking what to take to him next . I have been wearing the trousers today. I'm full of praise for the cloth. And very happy with his work. Life is full of surprises I like the thought of having a tailor 500m from my house.
Cheers, David
Great story David.
Life is full of pleasant surprises.
Happy New Year!
Cheers
Life is full of pleasant surprises.
Happy New Year!
Cheers
This is a wonderful story, and wonderful news. And now you not only have the convenience of a local tailor, you can give the gift of supporting his fingers (and the craft). If you find that you and he work well together on a coat or two, I'm sure you will be in a position to refer a few more discerning clients to him, to help him build up his business. Does he have a son?
Cheers!
Cheers!
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Great find: it seems that he should be given the chance to make up that coat
Dear Couch,couch wrote: Does he have a son?
Cheers!
There are many sons. And cousins, and brothers . Last time I was upstairs in the workshop, I counted at least 6 people. At least two of his boys work downstairs as well.
He will certainly. I just have to turn my cloth trunk upside down to find the right cloth.Screaminmarlon wrote:Great find: it seems that he should be given the chance to make up that coat
Cheers, David
Dear Shredder,
you remind me of something overdue, indeed! For a number of reasons, I didn't do anything yet with him. Full closets, busy with tailors elsewhere, and lock-down, to name a few. I still use him for repairs. But I should do a more serious test, as I intended. Thank you for the reminder!
Cheers, David
you remind me of something overdue, indeed! For a number of reasons, I didn't do anything yet with him. Full closets, busy with tailors elsewhere, and lock-down, to name a few. I still use him for repairs. But I should do a more serious test, as I intended. Thank you for the reminder!
Cheers, David
Dear David,
All in good time!
Many thanks for the update.
S
All in good time!
Many thanks for the update.
S
Dear Shredder,
so I finally got my act together and commissioned a linen SB coat with this tailor. I'm looking forward to the result... I'm curious. The approach he is taking is not exactly what I'm used to. But he said he was hungry for some decent work. I will report.
Cheers, David
so I finally got my act together and commissioned a linen SB coat with this tailor. I'm looking forward to the result... I'm curious. The approach he is taking is not exactly what I'm used to. But he said he was hungry for some decent work. I will report.
Cheers, David
I do look forward to see the result
Many thanks for the update. I'm even more curious now! What sort of approach is he taking?davidhuh wrote: ↑Sat Sep 25, 2021 4:57 pmDear Shredder,
so I finally got my act together and commissioned a linen SB coat with this tailor. I'm looking forward to the result... I'm curious. The approach he is taking is not exactly what I'm used to. But he said he was hungry for some decent work. I will report.
Cheers, David
Dear Shredder,
they are a Macedonian tailors family. I knew the father, who moved to Switzerland and who passed away a couple of years ago. The grandfather had already been in the business. Today, a son is running the shop, the third generation is around and also some uncles. He said he currently had a good pattern maker for a week, asked for a well fitting coat to copy and took no measures. The price tag is very reasonable, and I take it as a funny adventure..
Cheers, David
Thanks. I see. I look forward to reading about the result!davidhuh wrote: ↑Sun Sep 26, 2021 5:14 pmDear Shredder,
they are a Macedonian tailors family. I knew the father, who moved to Switzerland and who passed away a couple of years ago. The grandfather had already been in the business. Today, a son is running the shop, the third generation is around and also some uncles. He said he currently had a good pattern maker for a week, asked for a well fitting coat to copy and took no measures. The price tag is very reasonable, and I take it as a funny adventure..
Cheers, David
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