Father's Jackets

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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philstan
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Wed Jan 19, 2022 3:23 am

After the recent passing of my beloved father, I was given the grim task of sorting and disposing of his very extensive wardrobe. He was, as long as I can remember him, an extremely elegant man who enjoyed his clothes. Having lived in London, he also had access to some of the world's best bespoke tailors. His favourites seemed to be Huntsman and Turnbull & Asser as he had dozens of examples of each.

So, it was a quite a nostalgic trip into my own childhood as I uncovered some of the clothes I remembered him wearing during the 1970's and 80's. All of his clothes were in exceptionally good condition given their age - admittedly, he could no longer fit into the earlier pieces so they remained "well stored".

Among his numerous cashmere jackets, 2 from the early 1970's particularly stood out for me. I share them with you in the possible hope that the fabrics may inspire a small enough following that the esteemed Michael Alden may consider replicating them as part of the Cloth Club - I would certainly be a significant subscriber of both.

This first jacket is 100% cashmere by W. Bill ( I hadn't realised they actually had a shop on Bond Street in the '70's where they not only sold cloth but made bespoke garments). I think he picked this one "off the rack" as it doesn't indicate bespoke, but it simply drips with astonishing craftsmanship - the button holes are just fantastic. It also has softness but with a body and drape that is rare these days especially for cashmere. The lovely subtle colour of light sage goes very well with jeans:

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This second one is my absolute favourite. It is a bespoke jacket also in 100% cashmere made for him by Turnbull & Asser in the early '70's. The cloth is simply alive with light and bounce. It is soft and luscious but, given its age, amazingly durable. The cloth has a complexity up close that cannot be noticed from a distance, but is instead seen as depth.

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Last edited by philstan on Wed Jan 19, 2022 3:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
Concordia
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Wed Jan 19, 2022 3:32 am

Oh, my. Not many could afford that stuff in those days, but those who could had some amazing options.
Screaminmarlon
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Thu Jan 20, 2022 8:01 pm

My condolences for such a loss.
I have to say that these coats come straight from the golden age of tailoring: they’re marvelous!
They ‘re like great vintages from the right Châteaux or form the right Cotes in Bourgogne, thank you for sharing
philstan
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Sun Jan 23, 2022 12:43 am

@screaminmarlon. Thank you. He is missed.
singlechange
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Mon Jan 31, 2022 2:31 pm

To have had such a father! I once complained to my tailor, who I used for alterations on my expensive rtw clothing, that I spent thousands of dollars before learning and deciding to try bespoke clothing. He said that the very few lucky ones, for instance, have an uncle or another relative introduce them to bespoke when the young man tags along for a visit to the tailor.
rodes
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Wed Feb 16, 2022 1:35 pm

philstan,
A great story and fitting tribute to the clothes, the man and you.
derekguy
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Fri May 13, 2022 5:59 am

Philstan, I'm very sorry to hear about the passing of your father. Thank you for sharing this story about him and the photos of the two coats.
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