Speaking of overcoats

A selection of London Lounge articles
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alden
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Tue Nov 08, 2016 3:12 pm

This is a video I did a long time ago. I was experimenting how best to show a garment with the wearer in real life movement. That as opposed to the horrid frozen dead fish pictures one normally sees on blogs and forums.
The lighting was pretty bad but you get the idea...



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alden
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Tue May 22, 2018 7:42 pm

I am calling your attention to this video once again to reinforce a point often overlooked by the sartorial debutant.

Life is motion. We live in motion, even when we are not moving. We do not live in freeze frames.

A good tailor cuts clothes made for motion and he will be keen to see his work on his client as he walks about the shop. Even if he pretends not to be paying attention, a tailor's trained eye is surveying his work and how it moves. You should always do the same.

A tailor content to see his wares on a mannequin (and there are plenty of them) should be avoided. He has got a pattern that fits that mannequin perfectly and he is so proud of it. And why not? The mannequin is fit, has square shoulders, and a trim waist, no rounded back, no sloped shoulders, no imbalances at all. The mannequin is so easy to fit, the stock pattern works fine, he never asks about comfort, the dear dummy, because he just stands around and gathers dust.

You might have purchased clothing made for a mannequin from e-tailors suggested by your favorite blogger salesman. And you couldn't move gracefully in them, or you couldn't move at all. Now you know why, they were made for two dummies, the mannequin and you.

When you are surfing along the Sartorial net be very suspicious of photographs, those freeze frame fictions stolen from real life do you little good. Look to see a tailors work, and a man's style in motion. You'll see the truth about each and be able to make a judgement about both.

Cheers
sartoria01
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Thu Jan 23, 2020 4:29 am

Michael,

I've been preaching this forever on StyleForum but I'm called a dinosaur. Clothes need to move and not plastered to the body. They need to be cut full enough that they can show character, come alive when in motion rather than stick to the body like a second skin. I now waer nothing but full cut high-rise trousers to accompany full cut jackets and coats. Not only are they infinitely more comfortable, they look far more elegant and sophisticated.

Alan Bee
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