Apparel Arts and Esquire Images

Read all the excellent articles written by the LL style scholar, Etutee.
theoldesouth
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Sun May 11, 2014 7:35 am

Wonderful, Minh, very much looking forward to it and thank you, again, for your generous contributions to this thread. … :wink:

Cheers,

TheOldeSouth
Gido
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Mon May 12, 2014 5:24 am

That is great news. :D
hectorm
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Mon May 12, 2014 4:51 pm

Dear Minh,
these posts are a treasure for those of us with a keen interest in clothes and style. Let me thank you once more.
Upon reviewing the last few articles from 1934 I found a reference to a "sleeveless cardigan" which I hadn´t heard since the mid 60´s. On those days knitted buttoned vests were much in vogue, specially for children of conservative families. As much as -a hundred years earlier- they were for military men. Actually, the original cardigans (in the military) were all sleeveless. They "grew" sleeves later on for more domestic uses.
theoldesouth
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Tue May 13, 2014 5:03 am

(Interesting information, thanks, Hectorm. :) )
schmayck
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Sun Aug 31, 2014 6:58 pm

Any updates on this wonderful thread? Greatly appreciated!
VRaivio
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Wed Nov 05, 2014 2:27 pm

I'm sure we have some lawyers on the forum. What does the current American copyright law say about style illustrations like these AA and Esky images? Are they in the public domain now that some 70 years have passed since publication, and the original artists are dead and buried, too?
arkirshner
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Wed Nov 05, 2014 5:06 pm

As you may recall following publication of his book "The Suit" modeled on "The Prince" Manton proposed to write a book on AA modeled on Machiavelli's "Discourses on the First Ten Books of Titus Livy". The project came to naught because of the difficulty in obtaining rights from
Conde Nast who owns the rights.

Because of the lobbying of Disney whose copyright on Mickey Mouse was due to expire the length of protection has been extended to 95 years from publication providing proper renewals are filed.
cathach
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Sun Nov 16, 2014 1:38 am

arkirshner wrote:
Because of the lobbying of Disney whose copyright on Mickey Mouse was due to expire the length of protection has been extended to 95 years from publication providing proper renewals are filed.
Isn't it famously the example in US law of how each time Mickey Mouse has reached the end of his tether the copyright has been extended?
VRaivio
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Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:16 pm

arkirshner, thank you for the add! That's important info for my book project, too, though shame on Condé Nast for skimping on such old images Joe Regular will never even see.
Minh
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Wed Jan 28, 2015 6:20 am

For a New Year's gift to the London Lounge, we have the May 1936 issue of Esquire.

The undergraduate is wearing a three-button glen plaid Shetland suit, 3-roll-2 with side vents.

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A primer on dress.

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A symphony in brown:

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The Anthony Eden influence. Grey flannel with a faint blue windowpane, two button peak lapel suit. Gloves are white pigskin, vest is white linen, and the shirt is a fine batiste.

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Dress for a picnic: suede bluchers, a silk foulard handkerchief, and an unusual (for today) dusky, pale red shirt.

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Navy striped suit, white linen vest, chamois gloves, whangee stick. The stripes and the long roll of the lapel are slimming.

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Clothes for turf. Glen Urquhart plus fours, brown and white Norwegian spectator shoes, alpaca cardigan, and white foulard scarf with an overcheck.

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The college student of 1936 in a gabardine sports coat with side vents, grey flannel trousers, regatta striped socks, and repp tie.

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At the races. Peccary pigskin gloves, gabardine raincoat.

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A beautiful illustration from Nettleton shoes. Note the covert coat on the right, and the two gentlemen on the left and center, who both wear three-piece double-breasted suits (a rare model today).

Image
raykalendek
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Wed Jan 28, 2015 2:47 pm

Minh, I'm sure that I speak for many when I say thank you for the illustrations. I've always found in them great enjoyment and inspiration.
alden
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Wed Jan 28, 2015 3:01 pm

The shadow stripe symphony in brown influenced the same designs in the LL Fox book. It was a very common 30s suiting style.

We really do underestimate the potential allure of odd trousers such as the brown glen check model shown in the golfing scene. That trouser worn with a camel or maroon sweater is the height of chic.

The DBs in the last shot are just perfect models for great business suits.

Thanks Minh!

Cheers
davidhuh
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Wed Jan 28, 2015 4:34 pm

Minh wrote:For a New Year's gift to the London Lounge, we have the May 1936 issue of Esquire.
Dear Minh,

great illustrations, thank you! I have been missing you - good to see you back :D

Cheers, David
Melcombe
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Wed Jan 28, 2015 5:54 pm

[quote="Minh"]

Thank you Minh - these never fail to be inspiring. As regards that covert coat, it appears to be double breasted with peak lapel? As you say : rare.

I think Hacketts did one RTW a few years back. Looks good with a Bowler - like a judge at a hunt puppy show!
hectorm
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Wed Jan 28, 2015 7:27 pm

Fellow LL members:
At the top left corner of page 174 it says that the effect of a well tailored suit is a break at the chest.
I don´t get it. What break? Does it mean the drape at the chest?
What do you think?
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