Apparel Arts and Esquire Images

Read all the excellent articles written by the LL style scholar, Etutee.
alden
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Wed Feb 11, 2015 12:55 pm

Fantastic stuff! Thanks very much!

Cheers
uppercase
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Wed Feb 11, 2015 3:56 pm

Many thanks for taking the time to post these!
These images are always an inspiration.
Great ideas here.
couch
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Wed Feb 11, 2015 5:50 pm

Indeed. As always, many thanks!
derekguy
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Wed Feb 11, 2015 6:58 pm

Great stuff, Minh. Thanks again for your contributions.
angelo
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Sat Feb 14, 2015 11:56 am

Dear Minh ,
thank You very much for this new series of superb images. I have been really impressed by the mélangée effect of the grey flanell trousers shown in the fashion sketch at page 135 of Avril 1935 Esquire issue. Such a beautiful flannel is nowadays almost impossible to find even in the swatchs of the best British Mills. I have seen grey flannels with similar cloudy spots in the pages of 1920's Fox Brothers Archives; let 's hope that Fox Mill will bring soon his old beauties to a new life putting them again in production.
Angelo
angelo
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Sat Feb 14, 2015 12:12 pm

Minh,
sorry for the mistake.The page I was referring to in my previous post is 123 and not 135.

Angelo
davidhuh
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Sat Feb 14, 2015 1:17 pm

angelo wrote:Minh,
sorry for the mistake.The page I was referring to in my previous post is 123 and not 135.

Angelo
Dear Angelo,

I would suggest that you start here:
http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/prod/43 ... erringbone
http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/prod/24 ... erringbone
http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/prod/24 ... erringbone

Cheers, David
alden
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Sat Feb 14, 2015 1:55 pm

David,

Exactly. :D The flannels of the LL Fox book have that rich mottled effect you see in the fabrics from the past because they were made with the recipes and at the weights of those legendary textiles. The mottling and depth of a flannel comes from the blending of various colors. The heavier the weight, the more threads, the more various colors can coalesce to produce the effect we so admire.

Much has been made about the beauty of the grays in the LL Fox book, and the secret is in the mix of colors that bring richness and depth.

Imageimage1 by The London Lounge, on Flickr

Cheers
bestsummerever
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Sat Feb 14, 2015 3:55 pm

Minh,

Thank you once again for another tasty spread!
angelo
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Sat Feb 14, 2015 5:26 pm

From Fox Brothers' Archives the splendid series of grey flannels ,woven in 1920's, I was referring to in my previous post: http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/35/mr-f ... n-one-grey.

Angelo
Gilles Deleuze
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Sat Feb 14, 2015 6:25 pm

angelo wrote:From Fox Brothers' Archives the splendid series of grey flannels ,woven in 1920's, I was referring to in my previous post: http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/35/mr-f ... n-one-grey.

Angelo
These look great. Good on Fox. My favorites are the second from the top and the second from the bottom.
angelo
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Mon Feb 16, 2015 6:07 pm

Fred Astaire in a curious snapshot from the Let's Dance movie (USA,1950):
http://www.noveporte.it/taccuino/tau/li ... ategoria=1. He is wearing a 6x2 DB light gray flannel suit(Anderson & Sheppard), buttoned up in a degagé fashion to the lower button.The heavy weight fabric has a spectacular mottled effect due the perfect mix of colors , as already outlined by Michael. The flannel , likely produced by Fox , looks like the second sample from bottom present in the Fox Brother 1020's Archives page shown before.

Angelo
angelo
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Mon Feb 16, 2015 6:11 pm

I am posting better the picture with the precise URL:http://www.noveporte.it/taccuino/tau/gr ... dfoto=6531.

Angelo
alden
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Mon Feb 16, 2015 9:48 pm

Angelo

In this thread you will find the youtube link to that very scene

http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... =4&t=11518

This is the kind of cloth I love! :wink:

Cheers
Minh
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Wed Feb 18, 2015 8:42 am

That's a spectacular 18 oz. grey flannel chalk stripe, Michael, with real depth and character to the fabric. The 4x1 button stance is, to my eye, the most elegant arrangement for a DB suit, especially when the lapels are just the right width, as they are here.

Today we have the May 1935 issue of Esquire.

A DB glen plaid suit with jetted pockets, worn with a navy sweater vest and a blue/white striped oxford spread collar shirt. On the right, a 3-roll-2 brown chalk stripe suit with fawn colored, double breasted lapelled vest.

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A brown Donegal tweed suit, tan and white striped oxford shirt, and wine colored sweater. The editors recommend a tapered trouser, narrowing from the knee to the hem.

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Dressed for a picnic in a cheviot tweed jacket and Saxony flannel herringbone trousers (L), or tweed knicker suit with cable-knit sweater (R).

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For warmer days in May, this undergraduate is wearing a 3-roll-2 natural colored gabardine suit with patch pockets, side vents, and Ivy style lapped seams. The oxford shirt has a yellow stripe, the pocket square is a green silk foulard, and the bow tie is Indian madras. A subtle matching of patterns with the greens toning together:

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A single-breasted grey flannel suit with a DB lapelled vest in fawn linen; three piece navy chalk-striped flannel suit with notch lapels; light cream 6x1 DB gabardine suit with oxford shirt and foulard tie.

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To keep warm when you're strolling on the deck of a cruise ship in the North Atlantic, a Prince of Wales inspired tweed raglan sleeved top coat with fly front, slash pockets, and peak lapels. Paired with a brown shetland sports coat and grey flannels.

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This is the coat Esquire depicted in the previous illustration:

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Here is the Duke in a similiar overcoat, but with set-in sleeves:

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Clothing recommendations for the slender man. From left to right, a bold check sports coat, an elegantly wide-lapel, three-piece DB grey suit with blue windowpane, a three-piece SB suit with peak lapels and DB lapelled vest.

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Clothes for the well-dressed young man. A side-vented SB light tan gabardine suit with repp tie; a yellow flannel tennis blazer; and an exceptionally beautiful combination of navy DB jacket, white flannel trousers, white shirt, and navy repp tie with light blue bar stripe. At the bottom of the page, you'll find a houndstooth brown sports coat with grey flannel trousers and a natural colored linen DB jacket with Havana brown slacks and Indian madras bow tie.

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Besides the official drawings by Fellows, Hurd, Saalburg and other exceptional artists, Esquire had memorable illustrations for its advertisements. When was the last time we saw an ad for jacket linings in a magazine?

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What to wear on a weekend in the country. A 6x1 blue flannel chalk stripe suit; dark green flannel blazer with white flannel trousers for tennis; light grey herringbone Shetland or flannel trousers; a SB Shetland sports coat with self overplaid; and for the evening, a shawl lapel dinner jacket in a pale cream/tan shade.

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For semi-formal daytime ocassions, a black 6x1 DB jacket, grey checked trousers, and black oxford cap-toes.

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