Vol. I No. III (May 05') AA / Esky series

Read all the excellent articles written by the LL style scholar, Etutee.
Etutee
Posts: 153
Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2005 3:57 am
Contact:

Tue May 10, 2005 4:39 am

pchong wrote:Dear Etutee...

Could you please laborate more on the slip in your following comment:

"Tie is black with animal-figured (most likely a horse) stick-pin*, black cutaway with peak lapels, red carnation at the lapel, matching SB vest with white pique “slip” or edging. "

Is the slip also like a waistcoat? If so, can you describe it, or have a picture to illustrate how it looks like?

As we all know and so admire, it was also seen in Prince Charles' wedding outfit under his waistcoat.

Thanks.
Certainly...pchong,
A slip is basically sort of an "edging" done on a vest. It is sort of a decorative strip of cloth around the edges of a waistcoat. I will see if I can find some close-up of pictures of this. A very similar one is also used for the edging of cutaway or strollers (mostly done in black). Prince Charles has been spotted in these also. It is not quite like piping per se (which is done differently). On formal day vests it (slip) is best reserved for SB vests…rarely spotted on DB vests.

sincerely
etutee
Etutee
Posts: 153
Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2005 3:57 am
Contact:

Tue May 10, 2005 6:55 am

manton wrote: I must say, I do not like the notch morning coat. It looks out of balance; the top is too weak to stand up to the rest of the coat.
Indeed. Quite right....makes you wonder what was saalburg thinking?
alden
Posts: 8200
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:58 am
Contact:

Tue May 10, 2005 7:08 am

Etutee

Mr. Elkann's brother took a different and more traditional approach

Image
pchong
Posts: 287
Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2005 1:48 am
Contact:

Wed May 11, 2005 1:02 am

Thanks etutee...very interesting. We can see the slip clearly even in this smallish picture of the Prince of Wales in his recent wedding, and on his DB vest.

Image

Would appreciate closeup pictures showing the slip...I am unable to imagine how the slip is applied to the folded edge of the lapelled vest.

Regards,
Pete
Nick M
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2005 4:14 am
Contact:

Wed May 11, 2005 7:59 am

Etutee wrote: A slip is basically sort of an "edging" done on a vest. It is sort of a decorative strip of cloth around the edges of a waistcoat.
I had always guessed that the slip was, as the name might suggest, an extra slipover garment, like a sweater-vest.

Now that I know that it isn't :wink: , do you know how the edging is attached to the vest? Is a slip inseperable from its waistcoat, or can it be transferred from one to the other?

Thanks again for the wonderful pictures.
Etutee
Posts: 153
Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2005 3:57 am
Contact:

Thu May 12, 2005 12:32 am

Nick M wrote:
I had always guessed that the slip was, as the name might suggest, an extra slipover garment, like a sweater-vest.
No Nick.... Actually you are quite close. I got mixed up at my descriptions from AA/ Esky...they use the terms edging and slip often (sometimes interchangeably ). My apologies to the readers.

Edging is something different. Like done on Prince Charles cutaway edges. That braid like decoration is indeed applied on the coat it self. Quite tasteful if done correctly. Mostly it is silk or some silk belnd. Now for slips they use cotton pique more than often.

Its a very old practice...before WW I era. I will search if I can find a good picture for you. I wil try to post more detail tomorrow.

sincerely
etutee
Etutee
Posts: 153
Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2005 3:57 am
Contact:

Fri May 13, 2005 2:51 am

Dear Nick,
A "slip" is basically a demi-shirt or a demi bosom. Like I mentioned above it is usually made of Marcella. Usually attached to the Morning coat on the inside with the means of a fastener. It is NOT a part of the vest. Since it needs impeccable tailoring for its correct positioning...you see an infinitely small proportion of men using it in formal daywear.

Unfortunately I do not have one in my possession right now...otherwise I would have happily posted pictures for you.

Edging is different…it is attached to the vest (on the edges) like seen on cutaways (always black). Black edging (at the edges of jacket lapel) is perfectly correct for both morning coats and strollers.

Sincerely
etutee
Last edited by Etutee on Mon May 16, 2005 2:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
Nick M
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2005 4:14 am
Contact:

Fri May 13, 2005 12:46 pm

Ah-ha! Excellent. Mystery solved.

Thank you, sir.
miumoi
Posts: 17
Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2005 9:28 pm
Contact:

Sat May 14, 2005 3:39 pm

...
Last edited by miumoi on Thu Jul 14, 2005 8:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
risto
Posts: 19
Joined: Wed May 11, 2005 4:36 am
Location: Vienna
Contact:

Mon May 16, 2005 6:25 am

Obvious question from a newbie, but would appreciate some pointers ... where might one find this Esky folder? Does one need invitations for additional folders? At the moment, I appear to have only access to the general Dressing Room folder.
Etutee
Posts: 153
Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2005 3:57 am
Contact:

Tue May 17, 2005 3:56 am

risto wrote:Obvious question from a newbie, but would appreciate some pointers ... where might one find this Esky folder? Does one need invitations for additional folders? At the moment, I appear to have only access to the general Dressing Room folder.
Dear Sir,
I believe you have to be a member to access that. I could be mistaken...maybe Mr. Alden or anyone else can provide with accurate info.

sincerely
etutee
Cruz Diez
Posts: 61
Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2005 9:23 pm
Contact:

Wed May 25, 2005 3:47 pm

Dear Etutee,

I was looking for your wonderful pictures of belted jacket designs but couldn't find them in the Apparel Arts/Esky folder. Please let me know when they become available again, as I think they are a great reference for designing future commissions. Thanks a lot!

My very best regards,
:D Miguel :D
Etutee
Posts: 153
Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2005 3:57 am
Contact:

Thu May 26, 2005 2:09 pm

Cruz Diez wrote:Dear Etutee,

I was looking for your wonderful pictures of belted jacket designs but couldn't find them in the Apparel Arts/Esky folder. Please let me know when they become available again, as I think they are a great reference for designing future commissions. :D Miguel :D
All the belted back jacket pictures along with recent AA pictures (from various threads) have been moved to the Esky folder with their descriptions. You may view them there. The belted back jackets are in a separate subfolder in Esky.

sincerely
etutee
countdemoney
Posts: 36
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 2:25 am
Contact:

Sun Jun 05, 2005 12:06 am

That was a wonderful contribution. Thank you so much for sharing.

There was a time in the U.S. when people would dress up to attend professional sporting events. It's still true of prize fights, but little else.
RWS
Posts: 1166
Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2005 12:53 am
Location: New England
Contact:

Sun Jun 05, 2005 12:49 pm

countdemoney wrote:. . . . n the U.S. . . . people . . . dress up to attend . . . . prize fights . . . .


I hadn't known that. Semi-formal (strange, that would be!), or just coat-and-tie?
Post Reply
  • Information
  • Who is online

    Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest