START OF SECTION III OF THIS POST
Staring of with section III of this post, we will go through a fashion survey from spring season, then after that observe various late winter / early spring items. The fashion survey is presented to give you many ideas in a relatively small place and at the same time explaining how some of these clothes were worn when they appeared first. This section contains some of the rarest AA / Esky illustrations…
From Spring of 32’
THE FASHION SURVEY
Seen at Meadow Brook. Most noticeable in suiting worn by this one of the largest gatherings seen at International Field since the last Internationals two years ago, were Glen Urquhart and shepherd’s checks, nine out of ten carrying over plaids… Most popular color—Brown in single breasted notched lapel and three button single breasted peak lapel models, the latter now well favored in England. Blue suits with chalk stripes confirmed a trend that should go far. Double breasted grey flannel suits were very popular… Many sports jackets, light tan gabardine with belted back, mostly worn with grey flannel slacks, but with many of the social equine set showing a preference for brown Glen Urquhart slacks. Some of the smartest spectators wore Harris tweed jackets in browns boldly checked and with nubbed Irish Donegal tweed slacks—the first appearance of an interesting combination which the sports minded should favor.
Shirts in tab collar models in madras and broadcloth in close stripes and bold colored stripes were still the most prominent but the 2 3/8 inch collar attached worn with a heavy gold pin is on the upswing in favor… many of these in cream broadcloth, very smart. Others in Glen Urquhart plaid in cotton in blue and tan (four worn by members of the Meadow Brook Club), also the perennial button down collar in white oxford.
Cashmere ties still high up in the popularity list…. Glen checks, plaids, solid colors, with madder foulards a close second. Most interesting feature in neck wear—crochet wool tie in stripes and a few in solid colors, and worn by the younger men.
The majority of the hose seen were wool, blue and grey in jacquard and plaid patterns worn by the older, and with their juniors still favoring yellow and light blue in solid colors… Many wore sweaters rather than waistcoats, all V necks in subdued patterns, though there were a few solid whites and burgundy.
Though the most popular hat is still a brown snap brim, some with raw and a few with bound edges, several men in the club enclosure wore telescope crowns snapped down all around in tan or dark green of scratch felt with a band about an inch high. London reports indicate this type as becoming increasingly popular in the English country sides and worth watching here.
SEEN AT OLD WESTBURY.The majority of the guests visiting the F. Ambrose Clarke Estate for the running of the thirty-fourth Meadow Brook Cup Race wore sports clothing… odd jackets and slacks or riding breeches and riding sacks… Gathered in colorful groups around a dozen coach-and-fours (Mr. Clark prohibits the entrance of motors into the grounds) were such well-known as the William Goadby Lowes, the Tommy Hitchcocks, and the Sonny Whitneys. The newest note in sports jackets evidenced by the garb of these important representatives of horse-loving society was a bold brown Glen Urquhart district check of Harris tweed with leather buttons. At least twelve of these coats were seen. Another coat equally popular was a hound’s tooth check of the same fabric and color. Most of the riding coats were either plaids or over checked patterns. Shetlands were worn… suits, jackets, and odd slacks.. with brown again favored in herringbones… worn with gabardine jackets… Once more, as at the Open Polo Championship, slacks of Donegal tweed (brown with orange and yellow speckles with lap seams* and self turned cuffs) were affected. Grey slacks with blue flannel or odd check jackets were worn by the more elderly sportsmen.
*This mentioning of lap seams is of vital interest.
Cashmere neckwear outnumbered all others…checks, plaids and foulard patterns, though the number of striped crochets too in solid colors and narrow in shape… maroon, blue and tan.
By far the most important note in shoes… brown buckskin with wingtips, perforated toe caps, and no toe caps. A goodly number of brown brogues, several with over-lapping tongues. Black scotch grain full brogues added a smart note to ensembles of brown and green.
Hat brims were wider… an amazing number of green felts. Also the telescope crown snapped down in front… Snap brim raw edge in dark brown still the most popular, however. One of the smarter horsemen wore a riding coat of Salt sack (really a bleached burlap, white in color, and originating in Aiken, South Carolina) with breeches of reddish brown, blucher riding boots of brown buckskin, canvas puttees, spotted hacking scarf,* Tattersall waistcoat, one piece top Glen check English cap, brown buckskin gloves.
*Now, obviously nobody is asking you to wear breeches… though the riding stock can still be indulged in. Use your imagination here (& wherever else breeches or knickers are mentioned) and there is no reason why you cannot substitute trousers of almost same color and pattern scheme in place of breeches or knickers.
SEEN AT PRINCETON. A careful checkup of Princeton clubs revealed some new and startling fashion trends, particularly the revival of the Norfolk jacket, not only the old model Norfolk, but the new and the latest version. The smartest tailor at Princeton has sold a number of these in Harris tweeds and Shetlands of brown mixture. If this jacket becomes more widely accepted at Princeton, it will probably regain the country wide popularity it had some years ago.
Bold hound’s tooth check jackets in black and white and brown and white are seen. These had sports backs.* The Princeton favorites, brown and grey, are still worn, although these colors now have striking patterns such as over plaids and checks. A number of students wore under their leather-buttoned sports jackets crew neck sweaters (and only crew necks) in solid colors, mostly white and blue. But one does find a new color—wine,** and this may be the coming color in men’s apparel, as several Princetonians have turned to tweed suits with wine over plaids on brown grounds.*** Wine, by the way, is one of the most highly regarded colors in England.
*Sports back means belted fancy banks.
**This was mentioned in the last post also.
***Take note of this interesting combination of brown tweed and wine over plaids.
Incidentally, more tattersall waistcoats are to be seen at Princeton than have ever been worn there. Gabardine sports jackets and light cream gabardine suits dot the campus on mild days. A number of the later had knickers, short and not plus fours… grey slacks, slacks of black and white shepherd’s checks with self turned cuffs.
A great amount of double breasted suits are worn…mostly grey. Other favored suiting are Harris tweeds, blue worsteds with stripes, Lovat cheviots, Shetlands in small diamond and herringbone patterns. Several three button peak lapel models looked as if they have been purchased in England, but most carried notch lapels. Many jackets had vents and patch pockets… smarter models, side vents and cash pockets… flaps on all pockets.
The reversible topcoat of tweed and gabardine has taken Princeton by storm… other combinations: leather on one side, tweed on the other; leather one side, gabardine on the other. A great many camel’s hair coats still being worn, but most of them look like they were bought in past seasons.
The flannel tie has brought the flannel shirt, and the flannel shirt is bringing the button down collar attached model back to popularity. Glen Urquharts and hound’s tooth patterns are widely accepted, but there is a marked and extremely important swing to solid colors, brown, grey, and blue. Besides the very popular tab and the button down collar attached, round collar attached shirts, made in a custom model but without a center pleat, and worn pinned, are making headway with Princeton clubmen.
Cashmere mufflers in bold district plaids and solid colors… silk gummed twill spotted mufflers tied in the Prince of Wales manner… large foulard madder print handkerchiefs… pig skin gloves in oxblood and yellow… buck gloves in rich browns… yellow string gloves… chamois.
The popularity of brown shoes continues, particularly in wing tipped and blucher models… brown buck skin… brown calf shoes with over lapping tongues made with crepe soles and heels… many cordovans, wing-tipped.
SEEN AT YALE. Just as this significant trend was apparent at Princeton, it is patently evident that Yale too is becoming more sports-minded than dress-minded in that matter of daily wear. The clear faced worsted that has had such tremendous vogue nationally as a result of acceptance at Princeton and Yale is being restricted to use in town clothes by students of both these institutions. If this countryside type of merchandise is properly presented as sports apparel to men of every age and not permitted to slop over, by incorrect modeling, into the business field, there is no valid reason why it cannot give rise to the merchandising of a wardrobe as distinct from the business ensemble as are formal clothes today… with new profit to the retailer.*
*Something worth reading and re-reading again. An important notion of the over all movement of fashions is explained here and how the retailers (caught amidst the height of depression) desperately try to take advantage of this.
At Yale pattern and design have fast replaced solid color effects. Brown and grey is still the predominating note, but the increase of patterns—plaids, checks, and herringbones—is steady. The solid grey flannel slacks that are worn are of the darkest grey imaginable, and are worn with light brown Harris tweed jackets with plain and with fancy backs, light cream gabardine jackets, and grey Glen Urquharts. Four-pocket Donegal jackets, mostly black and white mixtures, have really gained a foothold here. Many undergraduates affected flannel slacks of grey Glen Urquhart or shepherd’s check with jackets of gabardine, tweed, and the newest note—Lovat cheviot. In suitings English cheviots, very coarse and resembling tweeds, are favored in blue-greens, blue-browns, and browns with purple casts… very attractive… very popular… also camel’s hair vests with leather buttons.
Reversible topcoats (some in Lovat) almost equaled in number the camel’s hair, an amazing phenomenon in the face of many years’ supremacy of the latter in this locale. Colder weather brought out a number of English Balmacaan coats… single breasted button through with leather buttons, small military collar, slash pockets, in length about an inch below the knee, with a very full skirt. Many were lined with small hound’s tooth and shepherded checks in black and white.
The newest and most important note in shirts are Glen Urquharts and shepherd’s check of mercerized cotton with tab collar attached. This particular fashion has had a very definite acceptance here. Every shop in town has had a difficult time filling its orders. Many undergraduates wore tab collar shirts in plain or bold stripes… another popular variety had the short pointed collar, pinned to break smartly.
Insofar as neckwear is concerned it’s wool.. scotch plaids, Glen checks, shepherd checks, hound’s tooth checks, and small geometric designs… a few striped crochet wool ties… a few rep ties.
The all white shoe and the white shoe with the black saddle strap looked as if it were on the wane with dark reddish brogues taking its place rapidly.
Brown snap brim hats, worn as at Princeton without pinching, still prevailed… edges bound. Sport mindedness has brought in bold checked English caps.
SEEN AT BELMONT. Clothing and accessories of the Turf Set revealed a definite leaning toward pattern and rougher weaves in all fabrics.
Overcoats and topcoats were decidedly short, from ½ to 2 inches below the knee. The peak model fly front was the most outstanding model with the double breasted, particularly in grey herringbone effects and solid blue, second. Many coats carried slanting pockets with flaps… others, breast pockets with flaps. Many smart turfites favored Balmacaans in district plaids and checks—red glen Urquhart with blue overplaids, brown hound’s tooth checks with green overplaids, shepherd’s checks… Reversible topcoats of Harris tweed and gabardine were equally popular. The growing acceptance of the British short-warm is worthy of attention. This is the coat that was so extremely well liked by the English army during the war. It falls to a few inches above the knee, fitted… three leather buttons to button, double breasted, single vent in back… the bottom of the coat has five rows of stitching, flaps on pockets have three, as have the sleeves.
Suitings were of Glen Urquharts, Shetlands, blue-striped worsteds, Harris tweeds, and cheviots, many in Lovat shade.
Shirts with tab collars were more prominent than ever in all types of striped materials… many in the new widespread model as favored by H.R.H. Even striped cotton flannel shirts with 2 5/8 inch collar pinned… round collar attached, pinned in striped cheviots… Glen plaid and shepherd’s check cotton with wool finish to complement the rougher weave suits. The small round white collar found a number of adherents. There were enough green shirts to insure (along with other observation) a place in the fashion sun. Stiff bosom shirts… quite a number of them.
Ties … even striped reps… cluster stripes… wool ties in checks… spotted and polka dots well represented… several pointed end bow ties … many Spitalfields.
SEEN IN NEW YORK EVENING. Many Inverness overcoats. Not one or two but dozens… Blue and grey double breasted coats, the latter with satin lapels. Tail coats were longer and the waists were shorter. Lapels were wide, straight, of very dull ribbed cross grain. Some single breasted shawl collar dinner coats… A pale yellow silk waistcoat and a pale blue waistcoat were seen… a Continental quirk worth watching.
WIRE FROM OUR LONDON CORRESPONDENT… “Opening of the hunt season most successful in years. At the Quorn I saw many knicker-boxers on spectators. Small pattern pullovers. Wales was not hunting. Yet, polka dot reefers and rat catcher ties very popular. Hound’s tooth patterns prevailing in clothing. More caps than hats. Evening clothes tail coats a bit longer in waist. Ties not so large. Inverness cape seen. Blue diagonal favorite in overcoats. Tails in London—dinner coats on the Continent for theaters.”
Proceeding onto with the article and moving towards the illustrations…
There has been some concern voiced over the fact that I have been neglecting blue suits in favor of grays and browns. While, that did not happened intentionally but reviewing past articles seems to indicate that this is indeed the case. Well… I will make it up this time and we will discuss at least 2 blue striped suiting in this post and then hopefully more in next.
In addition to this, we will discuss an interesting topic that has been long due… i.e. Odd vests with suits. You will find many neat examples to learn from in this article and these will not be confined to suburban ensembles only. In this article I have selected some really rare illustrations of odd vests. Well, there are many of them present in AA / Esky pages… but relatively few which are full page (head-to-toe). If you find odd vests hard to wear then simply omit them and observe the suitings in general.
The first one is from early spring of 38’ and depicts a blue chalk striped suit.
Image 6-25-18 at 8.22 AM (3) by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
Hmmm… what is the point of this illustration? Probably… that you can trod in-front of Sherry Netherland on 5th Ave (in NY) conversely… in front of (now closed) Plaza Hotel at the height of business daytime wearing semi-sports attire, just to prove that you “don’t work too hard”. In other words, not only can you escape from your office during business hours but are dressed in sporty articles.
That by the way is referring to the gent at the right in blue suit. Maybe our NY members can comment more on that.
Anyways, to begin with the detail… on the right we have a Marine blue (lighter than navy) flannel DB suit with pearl grey chalkstripes. Jacket carries 4 buttons and the lapels are rolled to the bottom button. Pockets are jetted and back in non-vented. Pants are cuffed. Shirt is blue and white striped with Spitalsfields tie in blue & pocket square is white linen. Hat is a sporty type known as Lord’s hat with a raw edge rolled up and shoes are of brown reverse calf. Resting on the gent’s arm is a rolled up umbrella.
Underneath the suit you will notice a lightweight black sleeveless mohair sweater that serves as an odd vest of dark color and lending an air of sportiness.
The over all lines of this suit are that of a metropolitan one. Clear cut lines of the shoulder with slight rope effect in addition to the jacket being of British Blade* model with jetted pockets all adds up in that direction. Here all you have to do is take out the black vest and substitute black calf shoes to swiftly change this attire to a formal city one. For something utterly dandified… try imagining the vest here in a lighter color.
*This British Blade model: Its hallmark characteristics include fullness in the shoulder blade area but a relatively clean chest. Note that this is different from the customary English Drape model.
Now for the gent on the left… he wears a English raincoat with raglan shoulders and a full skirt, white oxford shirt and checked wool tie. Suit is a medium grey flannel, a Cavalier hat, black blucher shoes, light grey socks and yellow string gloves. Take note of this raincoat styling as this will be used for later articles.
For those of you who are heaving a hard time imagining the blue suit with a light colored vest, below is something helpful. This is from Spring of 36’ and this time its Paris.
Image 6-25-18 at 8.22 AM (4) by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
This is in front of Place Vendome, and the ensemble is heavily influenced by Anthony Eden… in case you can’t tell. Prime example being of the black Homburg worn with a white linen waistcoat and white gloves. This is a truly dandified ensemble and surely not for everyone.
This is a flannel suit SB 2-button with a faint blue overplaid. Note that the plaid size is medium… neither too small nor too large. Jacket carry broad peak lapels with jetted pockets and is non vented at the back. Pants are cuffed with minimal break. The shirt is of fine batiste with a white starched collar… a Charvet influence actually. The large knot foulard blue and white bow tie is in a typical French shape (with London acceptance in early 30s). The sack wrist gloves are lightweight white pigskin. Shoes are black cap-toe on a highly town last. Recommended for US users (at that time) was dispensing with the white gloves and the rattan stick and substituting a soft felt for the homburg. See how the silhouette tapers inwards below the waist… a phenomenon explained above with black suits.
Now for the details… gentlemen pay close attention here. In observing this ensemble you realize the sort of “dash” that is absent in the blue suit above. Heavily adding to this “dashing” appearance is the white linen vest to be sure but notice the presence of white in shirt collar and gloves also. The overall lines of the suit are metropolitan… such as lapels, pockets, shoulder line, etc. That is further enhanced by smart matching accessories. Modern day wearers may dispense with the bow tie and can opt for a four-in-hand in similar pattern and color. Even smarter will be the use of a navy tie with light blue dots to match the shirt color or the over plaid of the suit.
You should also notice that the vest shows 2 buttons, actually 1 ½ to be precise as the second one is partially covered. The horizontal placement of the breast pocket and the vest is aligned. You can change that if you like for alternating results. Here in this case substitution of a darker colored vest (like the one above) will considerably reduced its formality and the overall look. Of course should you decide to change the vest to a darker one… kindly change the accessories accordingly. To take this to another level try imagining this with a light color DB vest… like that of formal day wear.
But I am very fond of this as it is. All in all there is nothing dull or sedated about this ensemble, and it is supposed to be that way.
To view something similar in odd vest combination, click on the link below for a picture of Fred Astaire from 1948 (Easter Parade).
Image 6-25-18 at 8.22 AM (2) by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
Here note the combination of suit, vest and accessories. Observe the length, shoulder line and above all the cut of front quarters of the jacket. This suit is with a very old fashioned close 3-button stance with ticket pocket on the outside. See the brown chalk stripe illustration below for a suit very similar in design. By the way, this can be done with a DB vest also.
Observe these two pictures also
Image 6-25-18 at 8.23 AM (1) by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
Note here that Peter Lawford is wearing a WWI / early 20s era style brown suit with 2 breast pockets and belted back. His shirt collar is starched rounded one. Astaire’s suit is relatively new in cut but still has older details.
Speaking of Db odd vests and having dealt with a striped and windowpane suit, let us observe something in a solid grey. This is from spring of 35’
Image 6-25-18 at 8.23 AM (2) by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
This is a suit of very light grey flannel SB 2-button with vest left out. It is worn here with a double breasted vest of linen in fawn color, striped broadcloth grey shirt with white starched (short rounded) collar. Tie is of spaced figured foulard in black and yellow motif. You can have it in a neat small dot, i.e. black with yellow dots and that will be good too. Hat is a green homburg here but I would recommend a gray one for a dressy look. The best choice of shoes with an outfit of this type will be that of black with a town design. However, you can opt for dark reddish brown ones as an option. Note the yellow carnation. Here in this case a white pocket square is advisable or if the flower is white, you may have it in yellow.
Similarly… this one (below) is from Spring of 35’ and best recommended for town wear.
Image 6-25-18 at 8.23 AM (3) by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
This is a 3-pc blue flannel suit with prominent white chalk stripes. The pockets are jetted and the lapel is rolled to the middle button. Shirt is of blue broadcloth, starched collar to match, and a large checked black and white bow tie with a thicker knot. Pocket square is in a blue and white color. Gloves are off-white buckskin. Note here that the vest has a higher than usual opening V with only one button of shirt showing. This is only recommended strictly for bow-tie wearers. If you use four-in-hand knots you may want to drop the opening V below… such that its aligns horizontally with the pocket square. In that way you will have sufficient room for shirt and tie.
Now to show you that this odd vest business is not just restricted to citified attires but also to country / suburban ones… this below is from early summer of 34’.
Image 6-25-18 at 8.23 AM (4) by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
Moving into the realm of Glen plaids and odd vests. This here is actually at Belmont Park but similar observations were made at Saratoga also.
The outfits shown on this page are typical of the current preferences of those men who, by their every appearance at outdoor sports events, exert a perceptible influence on the fashion trends of the country. These fashion setting sportsmen constitute a small group, numerically, but of large importance socially and financially. Their whim of today is next month’s law in the designers’ workrooms.
The gent on the right wears a 3-pc suit (with vest left out) of bold Glen plaid. Jacket is 3-button with lapel rolled to the middle button. Pants are surprisingly cuff less. With it he wears a DB odd vest of linen in light fawn color, a white shirt with a white stiff collar, a red, white and green striped tie, Homburg hat and dark brown calf blucher shoes. He is carrying a bamboo stick with a gold pencil inserted at the turn of the handle.
Over here (unlike in above two instances) this suit follows natural lines and with a soft construction. Partly due to the nature of the fabric and partly of gents own preference. The whole ensemble is given a neat and unique touch with the addition of the DB odd vest, which by the way carries peak lapels of ample width… cut in a way to resemble a shawl collar like belly. The vests buttons are arranged in a keystone position and can be either 6 or 8 depending upon your taste. It has a square end instead of a “V” tipped one. Note the crossover position which is enough to show decent amount of shirt and tie. Here the suit does not carry an over plaid but can in blue (or red). It would be an extremely smart idea to match the shirt with the color of the over plaid (esp. blue) and the have one of the tie or pocket square colors in this scheme.
On Glen Plaids from Spring of 33’
For some years past no such definite acceptance of one pattern has been evident at any time as the present enormous popularity of the numerous variations of Glen Urquhart plaids. First observed almost two and a half years ago at some of the early spring meets, such as the United Hunts and other fashionable sporting circles, this pattern is growing consistently and is constantly extending its influence into all the branches of men’s apparel. You see it now in neckwear, shirts, hose, and even in robes, pajamas and shorts, while a Glen plaid suit has come to be regarded as an almost essential item in every man’s wardrobe, provided, of course, that makes any pretensions whatsoever to keeping his clothes up to date.
The gent on the left wears a Db suit of blue tropical worsted with 6 buttons and buttoned at middle one. Jacket has jetted pockets and is non vented. Shirt and tie combination is almost like that of the Parisian ensemble above… i.e. blue batiste shirt with rounded white starched collar and a blue and white dotted foulard bow-tie. Here however, the shirt carries a pleated front. His hat is a sennit straw with a club color band.* Shoes are brown buckskin with black leather soles and heels. Socks are of ribbed lisle in a light blue color.
*Speaking of club colors or regimental colors… here is something you must keep in mind.
…his hat is a sennit straw with a club color band and it’s nice to be sure, in emulating this example, that it is your own and not some other fellow’s club colors that adorn your hat. (Americans abroad frequently wonder why red faced and white mustached Englishmen suddenly bristle and turn purple at the sight of hat bands that some clerk recommended as being very nice.)
Kindly see section II “Tradition in Color” for detailed info on British regimental colors.
Just so you should know… it is perfectly correct to wear a soft felt brown hat in this case also.. esp. if straw is not your cup of tea.
For an alternate ensemble… here try imagining the gent at the left wearing the pants sketched at the right (glen plaid). That will create something rarely practiced these days… the art of wearing patterned trousers. If you like this idea you will be pleased to know that it is recommended and advisable for weekend town wear also. Substitute black shoes instead of brown buck when making this switch…. Or use dark mink color brown suede shoes.
Having done with blues and grays let’ us go to brown. Picture below is from early spring of 35’
Image 6-25-18 at 8.23 AM by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
Here you see two ensembles with odd vests underneath the suits and both of them quite suburban with their details. Here read this…
There was a time when one of the worst things you could say about a solid citizen’s appearance was that he “looked like somebody you might see at the races.” One of the others was “he drinks.” Today, the answer to both these bits of solemn opprobrium is “who doesn’t?”
The gent on the right wears a “track suit” in brown flannel with white bold chalkstripes. Jacket is a SB 3-button with lapel rolled to middle. It carries side vents and an additional ticket pocket. Pants are cuffed, shirt is of light blue broadcloth with white starched collar, foulard bow tie in yellow and red motif, yellow pocket square, rough finish Homburg hat, and brown calf shoes.
This is worn with a DB odd vest of linen with ample lapels. In fact the suit is drawn with a button stance intentionally lowered so that you can see the generous crossover of the vest. You can have this suit in the configuration like that of the Glen Plaid one (above).
Click on the link to see a close-up detail sketch of DB vest
Image 6-25-18 at 8.24 AM (1) by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
Here note that the lapels on the vest are peak but due to the extreme roundness appear like shawl. Note the V tipped front edge.
On the left we have a DB suit of small Glen check pattern.* Jacket carries 6 buttons with lapel rolled to bottom. Pockets are jetted and back carries side vents. Shirt is oxford with wide spread collar in blue and white stripes, tie is of foulard in blue and white dotted motif. Underneath the jacket is a sweater vest of navy blue. Derby is a rough finished one and shoes are brown suede with black leather soles and heels. Gloves are white buckskin.
*Here is a little bit of history on Glen plaids…
There are two types of plaids of which Scotland is the ancestral home, the clan plaids and the district plaids. The Glen Urquhart pattern is one of the latter variety and is, of all the district plaids, probably the best known. While no such romance, bound up with feuds and warfare, pertains to the district plaids as it does to those that come under the tartan classification, nevertheless the origin of the Glen Urquhart pattern is of interest. The district from which this plaid received its name is located in the county of Inverness, near a large inland lake which flows to the North Sea at Moray Firth, known as Strath Errick. The appellation “Glen” denotes that portion of the district which is located in a valley. While the Tartan plaids designated the wearer’s family, or clan, the district plaids merely designated the locality from which he came. Doubtless the Urquhart Clan took its name from this district.
See section II of this post “The Purest Scotch” for more detail on Scottish patterns and history.
Not all odd vests that are in light colors necessarily formal. One example is the tattersall waistcoat presented in last university styles article another one is below. This is from spring of 34’
Image 6-25-18 at 8.24 AM (2) by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
The last heavy suit presented for this winter season, it is a rare suit… I am sure you can see that. It is of neutral Shetland that carries a darker windowpane pattern. Jacket is 3 button with roll lapel and carries an extra ticket pocket plus side vents at the back. By the way… it is a 3-pc with original vest left out. Pants carry natural turn up (are long with straight hem to be worn with braces) which is basically a self folded cuff. The odd waistcoat is off yellow flannel, which can also be used as part of a riding kit, and the shirt is of tan cotton blend in a plaid. The waistcoat here is of a slightly higher opening, and if desirable you may lower the opening about 1.5” or so. Tie is knitted and green in color as is the pocket square. Cap is black and grey gun-club check in a one-piece top model. Topcoat maybe covert cloth (see below for illustrations) or tweed. Gloves are actually yellow in color. Note this matching of gloves and odd vest. Shoes are brown buckskin full brogues.
Here it needs be mentioned that either the shirt or the vest is best kept in solid fabric. Otherwise, you are apt to run into the danger of a pattern clash. For a more interesting alterative, change the tie to a solid red wool and use the pocket square in a brown or red / yellow motif. You can also change the shirt to yellow color and keep the original matching vest of the suit. Note that the jacket sleeves carry 2 buttons on the cuffs and this type of a jacket can easily be worn with trousers of flannels in tan or grey color. You can keep the rest of the ensemble as it is. This suit… because of its cut and fabric… is best advisable for country or suburban wear. You can try it in town on weekends or after business hours.
On Shetland for suits
Among the fabrics suitable for sports suits, none aspires to the first rank position held by Shetland. Of the various colors in Shetland cloths the neutral shade is favored, in self patterns or over checks. The pattern shown carries a small over plaid and is suitable for country wear in either warm or cool weather. It has all the desirable characteristics for a sports garment, being soft and loose in weave and draping nicely.
On country topcoats
Topcoats for country wear vary considerably, but raglan models in tweeds, particularly Lovats, are at this writing* a fashion high-light. The one shown is a rust over plaid on a Lovat ground which typifies the sportsman’s choice for suburban wear.
*That being spring of 34’
Alternate Accessories
A new tan cowhide belt for country wear has a swagger buckle with a Zip-clip fastener-- which permits easy adjustment and holds securely. The shirt is a new weave of oxford cloth, giving a texture that suggests burlap. It is effective in the colorings of the current woolen tweed patterns and goes very well with rough finished country clothes. The Argyle plaid hose give those who like to go garterless a chance to do it fashionably, as they feature an elastic top which obviates the necessity for garters. With the general popularity of plaids and checks, the traditional patterns on white grounds are very much favored for use in wool hose for country wear.
On checked shirt
Oxford type shirtings lend themselves to much variety and here a tweed weave suggests burlap in texture. The colorings are those of the current woolen tweed patterns and effectively combine with country type of a suit.
Okay… that takes care of the late winter / semi-spring articles for the time being. Let us view something that is a genuine spring ensemble and this is sort of presented as a precursor to the main spring article. This is from spring of 35’
Image 6-25-18 at 8.24 AM (3) by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
This is a gabardine suit of light cream color. Jacket is DB with long roll lapels and 6 buttons in a keystone configuration… i.e. you can’t button this in any other way. It contains jetted pockets and can be either non-vented or side vented. Shirt is a spread collar oxford in ivory color with red stripes and tie is a foulard polka dot in reddish brown color. Hat is brown telescope and with it recommended shoes are either brown buckskin, two-tone combinations, or even white bucks (if used in a resort setting).
It is an extremely useful of a suit… so much that it is right up behind the grey flannel one. You can use the jacket as a separate with white flannel, linen or white duck trousers. The pants can harmonize any light grey flannel jackets also.
Here to further elaborate on this topic, observe this illustration from early 30s… Tailor and Cutter.
Image 6-25-18 at 8.24 AM (4) by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
This is one of the most quintessential spring / summer suiting models and will be used in the future as a reference repeatedly. So take good note of it. This is a DB patch pocket model cut along very casual lines. Ideal fabrics for this type of suit are Linen, Gabardine, Silk, summer weight flannels and Cotton combinations. It can be made in tropical worsteds also.
Attending to the details… we have a short jacket with a button stance that is pushed up. Neither of the two buttons are at natural waist, the top button is higher than waist and the lower ones aligned with the opening of patch pockets. First note that both of the buttons need to be fastened in this case. If you opt for a roll in the lapel you can have it buttoned at the lower button only. Since the button stance has been pushed up, the “gap” between the lower buttons and the bottom of the jacket has been effectively covered with patch pockets. This type of a cut would look odd with jetted pockets or flap for that matter (unless you need that visual height). The breast pocket is welt but can be of patch and thereby will cover the open area you see (top right of buttons). Armholes are high and sleeves have proper tapering with only one button at the cuffs. Lapels are old fashioned (horizontal) and gorge is rather upper placed. Shoulder and waist lines are natural and are completely in accordance with the easy style that this suit is supposed to convey.
It is conventional for this type of a suit to be made in a fabric that wrinkles. Should you desire anything more adventurous, you can have this made in about 13oz weight covert cloth. By the way, the recommended weight for gabardines and linens is also 12-14 oz.
Pants are cuffed and very full in cut but have only a slightest hint of a break. Shirt is with soft lounge collar attached and tie is striped. Hat is a soft felt with a narrow brim. Shoes are of utmost interest and are in an authentic old fashioned two-tone design. Click on the link below to see a sketch.
Image 6-25-18 at 8.24 AM by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
The white portions are buck / suede or can be exotic goatskin & the darker parts are brown or black calf.
Moving along… look at this illustration below from fall of 34’
Image 6-25-18 at 8.25 AM by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
Guess what this is?... I bet, you are going to say…why, that’s a camel hair topcoat isn’t it? The answer is… nope.
This here is actually a covert cloth coat in a DB manner that is unusual for two details, first the removal of the stitching and the other is the fact that it is cut along rather formal or metropolitan lines. Moreover, the traditional greenish hue of covert cloth has been removed as much as possible leaving behind only a tan shade. Covert cloth is usually made up in that traditional fly front SB model but it is good to know alternatives as well. This comes to only a scant two inches below the knees, carries an external ticket pocket and a center vent at the back. The derby and the covert topcoat together convey and very “wall-street” type of a look and they team up nicely. The grey suit underneath is of worsted flannel with a bold blue overplaid.* Other recommended fabric for this type of a suiting is cheviot. Shirt is white with a starched collar and foulard tie is in blue and white polka dot motif. Shoes are black calf with rounded toes and straight tipped, gloves are of yellow chamois. Note the small blue cornflower boutonniere. You can wear a pocket square with this topcoat if you feel like it.
*(See the Duke of Windsor post to view this type of suiting in detail.)
The natural color covert cloth topcoat has always been a favorite with well dressed men, both for town and country wear. The coat shown on the opposite page is in a double breasted model with an outside cash pocket and has a definite waistline. The sleeves are set in with natural shoulders, while the coat is cut with fullness in the chest and at the shoulder blades. The back of the coat is plain except for a center vent.
You can try the same model of topcoat with the traditional rows of stitching around the hem, pockets and cuffs. It will reduce the formality considerably and will resemble the one used by the horsey set. If you opt for the stitching in this model… add a bit more flare to the skirt and alter the cut to a more relaxed one, so that all is in accordance.
Last but not least we have the final illustration of this article. From spring of 36’
Image 6-25-18 at 8.25 AM (1) by
The London Lounge, on Flickr
Here is the most traditional and correct version of covert cloth topcoat that you can imagine. Pictured here in the vicinage of St. James palace. The topcoat is fly front notched lapel with slanting flap pockets, the flaps carry extra rows of stitching that finish the cuffs and the skirt. This coat was a favorite of well dressed Americans too. Believe it or not this was a fashion that made its way the other way around… i.e. from US to UK.
Other details are a midnight blue homburg hat, a blue worsted suit, a light blue soft shirt with a starched collar, a dark spitalsfield tie with a gold animal figure scarf-pin. These pins were introduced in England at the Royal Ascot and derby. These were offered in various sporting animal figures—horses, dogs, etc… and were set in full vogue by none other than Edward VIII.
Before we wrap up everything… a little bit of history on covert cloth & shade will likely do you some good. …From fall of 34’
Covert is the shade—or perhaps the plural should be used, since there are several shades—which takes in the range from a light greenish-tan to a rather deep tannish-green. What is behind the name covert and to what use will this shade be put during the coming seasons?
Covert cloth receives its name from a very early association with the sporting hunting. This material was primarily used for garments worn by hunters and riders who met at an appointed rendezvous in or near a covert which was to serve them as a starting point for the day’s hunting. The application of the name to the cloth is, of course, an obvious one.
It is only natural that the cloth produced for this specific purpose was one which would withstand all kinds of weather, as well as the effects of the thicket and briar bush—hazards to be encountered in any good hunting country. Even as the “covert” itself afforded protection to the game, so did the cloth which borrowed the name provided protection to the hunter. The color of the cloth itself is the logical result of deliberate planning in the selection of a shade which would not appear too slovenly after the dust and mud had done their worst.
The covert cloth topcoat has each spring and fall shown increasing popularity among those who practically appreciate the essentially smart appearance of this cloth. It suggests a traditional smartness for both town and country wear and, beyond that, its subtle coloring seems to harmonize well with every possible combination of apparel. And now, with the covert coat established as one of the essentials in the wardrobe of the well-dressed man, it is only natural to find those who appreciate this shade in a topcoat favoring a new hat whose chief feature is the fact that it retains the true covert coloring.
On this interesting “new” covert hat…
Perhaps taking its cue from the covert topcoat, one of the outstanding points about the covert hat is the manner in which its greenish-tan color is equally at home with every shade of topcoat, suit and, in fact, almost any combination of furnishings.
The addition of a black band, incidentally, not only adds to the smart appearance of the hat but also its faculty for harmonizing with other articles of apparel, since black in any combination of colors serves the purpose of cutting down the effect of stronger hues so that they do not become too dominant.*
*In other words black usually is known for draining color from its surroundings.
The hat is in a shape which tapers slightly and yet avoids the extreme; its brim snaps readily and is a bit wider than usual. Taking excellent advantage of the covert color which is its main point of distinction, this particular hat seems unquestionably destined to be one of the smartest—if not the smartest—hats of the early fall season.
Just as covert evolved from its use in a certain type of hunting garment into various articles of apparel which incorporated its harmonizing color to good advantage, so there is no reason for thinking that this most recent use of covert color in a hat will be the final departure from the original use of the shade. It is, in fact, too much of a “find” for that.
This ends spring illustration section of this post. Next stop… Palm Beach / Summer preview.
END OF SECTION III OF THIS POST