RIP, Kilgour

[davidhuh]

Mr. Rubi’s goal (made explicit by himself as Huntsman new Director) is transferring all the wealth of the iconic SR house`s sartorial past into their new RTW clothes line.
I sense this is a misguided purpose,

Dear Hectorm,

You are right. The new priorities are well reflected by their new website

Cheers, David

[hectorm]

The new priorities are well reflected by their new website

I wonder if amongst the LL members there are some Hunstman's clients who are happy (or at least, satisfied) with the house's new priorities and direction.

[jb]

Huntsman is a good illustration of the unfortunate fact that the name and heritage of a bespoke tailoring house have nothing to do with their current output if the leadership isn't steeped in the ways of the firm in its heyday. For some time they have been turning out bespoke clothing that bears only superficial resemblance to what they made in the days of Gable and Olivier, which is not to say their work doesn't have its own merits, just that it's not "Huntsman". Other firms seem to have maintained more connection to their house style as well as their way of delivering service.

[Concordia]

Richard Anderson has been said to be "more Huntsman than Huntsman" for some time, but his suits seem to be more Carnaby Street in style (not quality) than the Gregory Peck grey flannel number. So perhaps that evolution has been going on for more than the last few years.

[hectorm]

Richard Anderson has been said to be "more Huntsman than Huntsman" for some time, but his suits seem to be more Carnaby Street in style (not quality) than the Gregory Peck grey flannel number. So perhaps that evolution has been going on for more than the last few years.

While it's true that nowadays you can find lots of Richard Anderson RTW -and you can even have your blue jeans bespoken in Japanese denim a his tailor shop- I think that the reference of a similarity to Carnaby Street is a bit unfair. Huntsman's style has always been "flashier" than other SR counterparts, but Richard Anderson's typical garment is not a "fashionable trendy" one, and although accommodating to his client's preference, his jackets (the garment which best carries a house style) are in the better Huntsman's tradition (one button, longish skirt, rather suppressed waist, substantial shoulders with roping, etc.)
By the way, Mr. Peck was a Huntsman's client but his famous gray flannel suit does not follow Huntsman's known style. I'm not sure whether Colin Hammick cut the suit, but it had to be constructed with a softer more simple squarish two-button stance to resemble the uniform of a 50's office worker in the U.S.

[smudger]

I have just taken in the Huntsman re-vamped website and it appears to be
an advert for the new creative director chap Roubi and appears devoid of
any reference to the staff and bespoke heritage that it is famed.
The words raping and pillaging are relevant in this post.

[andreyb]

http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2014/1/3/ca ... row-return

Brandelli is back, which means even less bespoke...

Andrey

[alden]

I have just taken in the Huntsman re-vamped website and it appears to be
an advert for the new creative director chap Roubi and appears devoid of
any reference to the staff and bespoke heritage that it is famed.

What truly amazes me is that investors would trust such a weak and nearly non existent CV. Destroy a legendary SR name based on those credentials? Ought to be a law against it.

Adieu Huntsman

Tears!

[alden]

which means even less bespoke...

And you are going to see even LESS bespoke in the next few years (as predicted.) The SR guys do not have the hands to continue in the custom, bench made business......its costly, complicated, not entirely fashionable and no one knows how to do it anymore. The only way out is RTW with a bit of MTM (for show and no dough.) Get your clothes made now! Before its too late.

Tears!

[smudger]

Having become aware of individuals such as Malcolm Plews and David Ward starting under their own name, is this the future for the row? Due to the cost of rent in Mayfair, shall we ever see a Tailor open a tailoring shop on Savile Row ever again? I think the last person who managed this was Richard Anderson.

[davidhuh]

What truly amazes me is that investors would trust such a weak and nearly non existent CV. Destroy a legendary SR name based on those credentials? Ought to be a law against it.

Adieu Huntsman

Tears!

Dear Michael,

the investor in this case is Mr Roubi's life partner. Huntsman has probably seen worse (read Anderson's funny book) but will likely survive.

I feel sorry for the staff and their current customers, but otherwise my grief is limited. If bespoke is to survive, it has to adapt to changing needs and different and younger customers. These younger customers will not feel at ease buying bespoke tweeds in stag decorated rooms, paying a hefty bill while getting bad customer service.

We have more independent tailors than ever in London and in other cities. Think of Thomas Mahon, Karl Matthews, Steed in the UK. I could drop more names in Italy, Lisbon, New York. We still have some older tailors around who will do a decent job at very fair prices. They are not coming with a label though, and this is where I see the real challenge in this marketing driven world.

Mr Hitchcock has just opened new premises, Mr Ward opened his own shop, the former head cutter from Gieves & Hawkes works on her own… Bespoke is very much alive today

Cheers, David

[Scot]

If bespoke is to survive, it has to adapt to changing needs and different and younger customers.

Is this what you mean -

http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/923dc9b0-633b ... z2pp8aSKYP

I do hope not.

[Kayak81]

Those who like the old Kilgour style might want to visit Ritchie Charlton at Hayward. Ritchie was a cutter at Kilgour before leaving to take over the Hayward business. When I first became interested in bespoke a few years ago, I stopped by the shop on a whim, as I wanted to understand whether they were continuing to make suits in the Hayward style. As the front of the shop person had no idea what I was talking about, Ritchie came out with several books and spent quite a bit of time with me. He showed me how Hayward really didn't have a defined house style and how his suits changed with the times and with the aging bodies of his celebrity clients. It really was quite an interesting conversation.

Although Ritchie's preferred style is a bit more structured than I would like, I would think that he wouldn't have any problem making a suit in the Kilgour tradition. He also commented on the suit I was wearing (a 13 oz. Lesser) and said wistfully that he doesn't get to use fabrics like that any more.

[alden]

David

The youngest of the names on your list is late 50s. A few are in their 60s and if Malcolm Plews, in this 70s, is the future of the Row, my concept of time and place is off...way off. There are just too few real tailors around and I maintain that bespoke may be alive....on life support.

Yes, there are a few real tailors still in activity and the trend is for them to leave the big houses to work to support themselves. That is why the big houses are turning to RTW. I don't think it has much to do with the youth movement. The established youth brands have any new SR entrants flanked..... The Charge of the Light Brigade, except that the Turks are armed with Cruise missiles instead of cannon. Huntsman and Kilgour will be vaporized.

Get it made now guys...get it made now...and don't ever gain weight!

Cheers

[davidhuh]

If bespoke is to survive, it has to adapt to changing needs and different and younger customers.

Is this what you mean -

http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/923dc9b0-633b ... z2pp8aSKYP

I do hope not.

Dear Scot,

this is not what I would wear, it would not suit me. However, there must be room for young cutters and tailors to experiment, there must be space for the Brandellis and the young apprentices on the Row as there has been space for a Tommy Nutter, a Richard James. If we insist that there should be no change, then I would declare the Row dead.

There are two positive examples I would quote - not precisely Row, but the ones I know personally:
1. Budd shirts: They messed up the refurbishment, agree. However, I see them prosper, I see young staff and a young apprentice working there, I seem them getting a little more flexible what their style and cloth selection is concerned, and I see more younger clients in their shop while I'm still getting all the attention and skills by Mr Butcher and Mr Rowley.
2. The young Mr Luca Rubinacci in Milan: He speaks to a young customer generation and has truly managed to attract them to traditional bespoke. I can only admire it.

Cheers, David